Tender cod cooks on a bed of sweet, slowly braised leeks with white wine and lemon. Crispy fried capers add a salty, crunchy contrast.
This oven-baked dish is all about contrast without too many components: mild, juicy cod on soft leeks, with a light sauce and capers that are salty and crisp. Leeks become sweeter and softer when you cook them gently; over high heat, they brown faster than they turn tender. White wine gives the leeks a little freshness and depth, while lemon lifts the flavors at the end. The sauce is intentionally light: there’s no need for cream to bring the fish and vegetables together.
Leeks are available in the Netherlands for much of the year. In the colder months, sturdy leeks are often plentiful; look for fresh leaves that aren’t dried out and a firm white stalk. Cut the leek lengthwise and rinse away any grit between the layers, as it tends to collect near the green parts. Use mostly the white and light green parts for this dish. A small shallot adds extra aroma to the base, while letting the leeks remain the star.
Cod has a delicate texture and cooks quickly. That’s why the leeks get some time in the pan first, and the fish goes into the oven afterwards. This way, the fish doesn’t need to stay in the oven long enough to soften raw leeks, which helps reduce the risk of dry cod. The exact cooking time depends on the thickness of the fillets: thin pieces will be ready before thick ones. Take the dish out of the oven as soon as the fish is just opaque and flakes apart with gentle pressure. A squeeze of lemon juice just before serving keeps the sauce lively.
Capers contain moisture and can spit in hot oil. So pat them thoroughly dry and fry them briefly; as soon as they open up and turn crisp, scoop them out of the pan. Scatter them over the fish at the table so they keep their crunch. If you don’t have capers, you can leave them out, but don’t replace them with extra salt: their sharp, briny flavor is what makes the contrast with the soft leeks. A dry white wine works best here; otherwise, use extra stock with a little more lemon.
Serve the dish with boiled baby potatoes, mashed potatoes or crusty bread to soak up the sauce. A simple green salad makes a nice fresh side if you’d like something alongside the warm bake. Refrigerate any leftovers in a sealed container within two hours and eat them within two days. Reheat gently until piping hot throughout; the cod may become a little firmer and drier when reheated.
Preheat the oven to 180 °C (conventional heat). Slice the leeks into thin rings, rinse thoroughly and drain. Pat the capers dry with paper towels.
Heat the butter and 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large frying pan over medium-low heat. Cook the shallot for 2 minutes, until translucent. Add the leeks with a little salt and pepper and braise for 10–12 minutes, turning regularly, until soft but not browned.
Pour the white wine and stock over the leeks. Add the lemon zest and simmer gently for 4–5 minutes, until the wine aroma mellows and the liquid reduces slightly.
Spoon the leeks and sauce into an oven dish. Place the cod fillets on top and grind over some pepper. Bake for 10–14 minutes, depending on thickness, until the fish is just opaque and flakes apart easily.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a small frying pan over medium-high heat. Fry the dry capers for 1–2 minutes, until they open up and turn crisp. Transfer them to paper towels.
Take the dish out of the oven. Drizzle the lemon juice over the leeks and fish and taste the sauce; add a little more salt and pepper if needed. Scatter the crispy capers over the top just before serving.
Main courseSweet corn, a splash of cream and a squeeze of lime make a hearty soup with both tender and whole kernels. Crispy tortilla strips, cilantro and chili oil bring freshness, heat and crunch to every bowl.
Main courseA hearty bowl of tender pearl barley, sweet cumin-roasted carrots and golden-brown chickpeas. The fresh sauce of herbs, lemon and tahini brings it all together, while toasted sesame adds a little crunch.
Main courseGolden brown and crisp at the edges, soft inside: these courgette and corn fritters get a fresh lift from lime yogurt and a little heat from chili oil. Serve them as a main course with a crunchy salad.