Veal shanks cook slowly in white wine and broth until the meat is almost falling off the bone. Parsley, lemon and garlic add a fresh, sharp contrast to the rich sauce at the end.
Ossobuco literally means ‘bone with a hole’: the veal shank is cut crosswise into slices, with the marrow visible in the middle. As it braises, the marrow softens and adds richness to the sauce. The base of the Milanese version stays light in color here: white wine and broth, without tomato. The exact ingredients vary from recipe to recipe; onion, butter and gremolata make a familiar combination in this version.
Veal shank contains connective tissue that needs time to become tender. A gentle oven heat helps the meat cook evenly; don’t let the liquid boil hard, or the meat may become firmer and the sauce may not come together as nicely. If you like, tie the slices with kitchen twine and snip the membrane at the edges in a few places. This helps them keep their shape as they brown. A heavy Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid keeps the heat steady.
Pat the shank dry before browning it. A light coating of flour helps form a brown crust and later thickens some of the sauce. Add the wine after the onion has softened and scrape up the browned bits: they add a lot of flavor. Use a dry white wine that you enjoy drinking, not a noticeably sweet one. Either beef or veal broth will work; choose a broth that isn’t too salty, since the sauce will reduce a little as it braises.
Gremolata isn’t a garnish to skip: the raw parsley, lemon zest and garlic provide a contrast to the tender meat and rich sauce. Grate only the yellow part of the lemon peel, as the white pith tastes bitter. Make the gremolata just before serving and sprinkle it over the dish, rather than mixing it into the whole pot; that way, its aroma and freshness stay distinct. Use flat-leaf parsley for a robust herbal flavor, or curly parsley if that’s what you have.
Serve the shank with risotto alla Milanese for the classic saffron pairing. Polenta or mashed potatoes also go well and soak up the sauce without competing with it. Plan on one shank per person, with some extra bread or a simple green salad for the table. Cool leftovers promptly, cover and refrigerate them, and use within two days; gently reheat the meat and sauce together until thoroughly hot.
Preheat the oven to 160 °C. Pat the veal shank dry. Snip the membrane along the edge in 2 to 3 places and, if you like, tie kitchen twine around each slice. Season all over with salt and pepper.
Spread the flour on a plate and lightly coat the shank. Shake off any excess flour. Heat the olive oil in a heavy, ovenproof Dutch oven over medium-high heat.
Brown the slices in batches on all sides, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer them to a plate. Lower the heat, add the butter and onion, and cook the onion gently for 5 minutes without letting it brown.
Pour the white wine into the pot and scrape up the browned bits. Simmer gently for 2 minutes. Pour in the broth and return the shank to the pot. The liquid doesn’t need to cover the meat completely.
Bring the liquid just to a simmer, cover the pot and place it in the oven. Braise for 2 to 2 hours and 15 minutes, until the meat comes away easily with a fork. Check halfway through to make sure there’s still enough liquid in the pot; add a splash of broth or water if needed.
Just before serving, combine the parsley, lemon zest and garlic. Taste the sauce and season with salt and pepper if needed. Spoon the gremolata over the shank and serve immediately with the sauce.
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