Orzo with roasted fennel, lemon and crispy chickpeas

Fennel with golden-brown edges

Fennel is roasted in wedges so the outer leaves take on color and the core turns tender. The oven brings out its natural sweetness; its gently anise-like flavor is still there, but less sharp. In the Netherlands, locally grown fennel is mostly available in the warmer months, though it is generally sold in shops outside that period too. Choose bulbs that feel firm and have no dried-out cut ends. Cut the wedges through the root end so they hold together while roasting.

Orzo looks like rice, but it’s pasta. So cook it in plenty of salted water and taste it toward the end of the cooking time on the package: it’s important to keep it al dente, as the pasta will cook a little more when you mix it with warm cooking water. A few tablespoons of that starchy water help the lemon zest, olive oil and parsley cling to the orzo. Don’t add all the reserved water at once; the orzo should be glossy and loose, not wet. Lemon zest adds fragrance, while lemon juice brings a more pronounced tang.

For crispy chickpeas, drying them well is a small but useful step. After draining, pat them carefully dry and fry them in a large skillet with oil so they stay in contact with the hot pan. Shake the pan now and then and give them time to turn golden brown all over. Canned chickpeas are convenient; dried chickpeas work too, as long as they’re cooked until tender beforehand and drained well. Fry them just before serving for the best texture: they soften after storage.

Tahini and yogurt make a creamy sauce that brings the roasted fennel and pasta together without overpowering the lemon. First stir the tahini with the lemon juice; the mixture may thicken for a moment, but it will become smooth again when you add the yogurt and cold water. Use Greek yogurt for a richer sauce, or regular yogurt and a little less water for a lighter version. If the sauce is too thick, thin it with water, one teaspoon at a time. Only then taste for salt, as tahini varies in flavor and saltiness.

Serve the orzo warm with the fennel on top so the roasted edges remain visible, and add the chickpeas last. Drizzle the sauce over the top or serve it on the side. Leftovers can be cooled quickly, covered and stored in the refrigerator, then used within two days; keep the sauce separate if possible. Gently reheat the pasta and fennel with a splash of water. The chickpeas will lose some of their crispness, so for extra crunch you can briefly warm them again in a dry pan.