ABOUT THIS RECIPEIce Crystals with a Crisp Counterpoint
Granita is an Italian preparation made from sweetened liquid that is scraped with a fork as it freezes. In this version, fresh orange juice is the base. The crystals are coarser and airier than smooth sorbet: scraping the mixture loose regularly is what keeps it from turning into one solid block. A wide, shallow dish helps, because the liquid freezes faster and more evenly in it than in a deep container.
Oranges are widely available in the Netherlands, especially during the colder months, but quality varies by variety and season. Taste the juice before adding sugar: ripe, sweet oranges need less than fruit with a distinctly tart flavor. The zest adds fragrant oils, but use only the orange part of the peel; the white pith can taste bitter. Briefly heat the zest with water and sugar so the sugar dissolves properly, and mix this with the juice only once the syrup has cooled. This keeps the fruit flavor fresh.
The almond meringues provide a clear contrast in texture. Whipped egg white traps air, sugar stabilizes the foam, and finely ground almonds give the cookies a nutty flavor. Gently fold in the almonds so the foam doesn’t deflate unnecessarily. Small meringue kisses dry more evenly than large ones and are easy to serve alongside the granita. Bake them at a low temperature; they should mainly dry out and become crisp, not turn dark. Let them cool completely before storing.
A few drops of mild extra virgin olive oil give the cold orange a rounded, lightly peppery note. Use just a little: the oil is an accent, not a sauce. A soft, fruity oil works better here than one with a pronounced bitterness. Serve the granita straight from the freezer, while it’s still easy to scoop. If it has become firm, scrape the top loose again with a fork.
You can replace some of the orange juice with mandarin juice, but taste again to check the sweetness and acidity. For a nut-free garnish, leave the almonds out of the meringues; they’ll then be plain little meringues with a less nutty flavor. Store the granita covered in the freezer and the completely cooled meringues in an airtight container in a dry place. Moisture softens meringues, so add them to the ice just before serving.