Fluffy rice with chicken and ketchup, wrapped in a thin omelet: omurice uses simple ingredients, but timing makes all the difference. Cold rice and a properly hot pan help keep the filling light and separate.
Omurice is part of yoshoku: Japanese dishes that put their own spin on ingredients and techniques from Western cooking. The name combines “omelet” with “rice,” and the familiar version consists of fried rice with chicken and ketchup, wrapped in egg. There are several ways to serve the egg. Here, the rice goes into a thin omelet that is folded around it; other versions place a soft omelet on top of the rice and cut it open. This version is practical for home cooking and keeps the filling together.
Ketchup here isn’t an afterthought or a sauce on the side; it’s a flavoring stirred through the rice. The tomato brings acidity and sweetness, while frying rounds out the flavor. Onion provides a savory base, and chicken makes the dish substantial enough to serve as a main. Peas add color and a hint of sweetness. Frozen peas are handy all year round; fresh peas are an option when they’re in season. For the rice, it’s best to use cold, previously cooked rice: it has less surface moisture and is easier to fry without clumping.
The most important technique is controlling moisture. Warm, freshly cooked rice can quickly turn soft and sticky in the pan, especially once the ketchup goes in. Spread the rice out after cooking to cool, or use rice that has been chilled overnight. Cook the chicken through, and fry the onion and rice until most of the moisture has evaporated before adding the ketchup. A wide frying pan helps the ingredients fry rather than steam. Prepare the filling before you start on the omelets; eggs cook quickly and are easiest to fill while they’re still pliable.
A nonstick pan makes the omelet easier to release. Keep the heat at medium-low and take the pan off the heat as soon as the egg has just set but still feels pliable. If it tears, spoon the rice on top and fold the egg around it as best you can: the flavor won’t change. For a small variation, you can replace the chicken with diced cooked ham; this changes the filling but keeps its savory, slightly sweet character. Serve with a little ketchup on top and, if you like, a simple green salad or cucumber for something fresh. Refrigerate leftovers promptly in a sealed container and reheat them thoroughly; rice shouldn’t be left at room temperature for long periods.
Use a fork to separate the cold rice into loose grains. Beat the eggs with the milk and half the salt.
Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook the chicken for 4–5 minutes, until the cubes are cooked through and lightly browned. Add the onion and cook for 2–3 minutes, until soft.
Add the peas and rice. Cook, tossing, for 3–4 minutes, until the rice is piping hot and feels dry. Stir in 3 tablespoons of ketchup and season with pepper and the remaining salt. Transfer the rice from the pan and keep warm.
Divide the rice filling into two portions and use a spoon to shape each into a compact oval mound. Wipe the pan clean and set it over medium-low heat.
Melt 10 g butter in the pan. Pour in half the egg mixture and tilt the pan so the bottom is thinly coated. Cook until the egg has just set but is still pliable. Spoon one portion of rice into the center, fold the sides of the omelet over it, and carefully slide the omelet onto a plate, seam side down.
Repeat with the remaining butter, egg and rice. Drizzle the last tablespoon of ketchup over the omurice and serve immediately.
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