These soft steamed rice sheets are filled with ground pork and mushrooms, and served with bright nước chấm, herbs and crispy shallots. You can make them at home too, using a flat, heatproof plate set over a pan of boiling water.
Bánh cuốn is a Northern Vietnamese dish made with thin, steamed rice sheets. The sheets are filled and rolled, then served at the table with nước chấm and fresh herbs. Its appeal lies in the contrast: the rice sheet is soft and slightly elastic, the filling savory, and the sauce sour, salty and sweet all at once. Crispy shallots add a toasted, crunchy layer. It’s eaten for breakfast or lunch, but a generous portion also makes a good light dinner.
The defining technique is steaming a paper-thin layer of batter. Traditionally, a tightly stretched cloth is used over a pan. At home, a flat, heatproof plate on a steaming rack is a practical alternative; the texture isn’t quite the same, but the batter still cooks over steam rather than in a frying pan. A well-fitting lid traps the steam. Pour the batter in a thin layer, using only enough to cover the plate: a thick sheet will be heavy and harder to roll smoothly.
Rice flour is the base of the batter; tapioca starch gives the sheets extra cohesion and spring. Let the batter rest and give it a stir every time before using it, as the flour settles to the bottom. The soaked wood ear mushrooms add a firm, slightly crunchy bite among the pork. Wood ear mushrooms are available dried at Asian supermarkets. If you can’t find them, use finely chopped shiitake instead; they’re softer and have a more pronounced earthy flavor. It’s best not to substitute regular wheat flour for the rice flour: it changes the texture of the sheet.
The thin sheets take a little practice. A small ladleful of batter and a quick tilt of the plate spread it evenly; the first one may come out a little thicker or uneven. That’s no reason to add more batter to the next one. Work safely with oven mitts, as the plate and lid get hot. Two flat plates make it easier to keep going: while one is over the steam, you can lightly oil and fill the other. Keep the sheets separate on a lightly greased platter.
Nước chấm makes the dish fresh and lively. The ratio of fish sauce, lime juice, sugar and water is deliberately mild here, so it doesn’t overpower the soft rice sheets; taste and adjust the lime in particular. Garlic and chili add fragrance and heat, but you can leave out the chili or serve it on the side. Put the sauce, herbs and fried shallots on the table so everyone can make their own combination. Cilantro and mint are an easy choice of herbs; if you like, serve with briefly blanched bean sprouts for extra crunch.
In a bowl, whisk the rice flour, tapioca starch, water, salt and 1 tablespoon oil until smooth. Let the batter rest for 30 minutes.
Soak the wood ear mushrooms in plenty of hot water for 15–20 minutes. Drain, rinse and finely chop them.
Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Cook the shallots for 2 minutes, until translucent. Add the ground pork and cook, breaking it up, until browned and cooked through. Stir in the finely chopped mushrooms, 1 tablespoon fish sauce and the black pepper. Cook for another 2 minutes, then set the filling aside.
To make the nước chấm, stir the fish sauce, lime juice, sugar and warm water until the sugar has dissolved. Mix in the garlic and chili, then set aside.
Place a steaming rack in a wide pan and add water to just below the rack. Bring the water to a boil. Lightly grease a flat, heatproof plate about 20 cm across with oil and set it on the rack. Make sure the plate is stable and the lid fits the pan.
Stir the batter well. Ladle about 50 ml of batter onto the hot plate and carefully tilt it to form a thin layer. Cover the pan and steam for 45–75 seconds, until the sheet is translucent and no longer looks wet.
Remove the plate from the pan using oven mitts. Run a thin spatula around the edge and carefully slide the rice sheet onto a lightly greased platter. Spoon a narrow strip of filling onto the sheet and roll it up loosely. Repeat with the remaining batter and filling, stirring the batter each time before using it. Lightly grease the plate again if it starts to stick.
Meanwhile, bring a small pan of water to a boil. Blanch the bean sprouts for 30 seconds, drain and let them drain well. Serve the bánh cuốn with the nước chấm, bean sprouts, cilantro, mint and crispy fried shallots.
Main courseSweet corn, a splash of cream and a squeeze of lime make a hearty soup with both tender and whole kernels. Crispy tortilla strips, cilantro and chili oil bring freshness, heat and crunch to every bowl.
Main courseA hearty bowl of tender pearl barley, sweet cumin-roasted carrots and golden-brown chickpeas. The fresh sauce of herbs, lemon and tahini brings it all together, while toasted sesame adds a little crunch.
Main courseGolden brown and crisp at the edges, soft inside: these courgette and corn fritters get a fresh lift from lime yogurt and a little heat from chili oil. Serve them as a main course with a crunchy salad.