This Neapolitan potato pie has a golden-brown crust of butter and breadcrumbs, with soft mashed potatoes, melted mozzarella and slices of ham underneath. Let the gattò rest for a little while after baking so it cuts neatly.
Gattò di patate is a savoury potato pie strongly associated with Naples. Its name is related to the French word gâteau, but this dish has its own distinctive form: mashed potatoes with egg and cheese, filled in layers and baked in the oven. The outside is firm and crisp; inside, the mash stays soft, with mozzarella that still gives a little when sliced. Ham is a common filling, but the exact ingredients vary from recipe to recipe and household to household.
Floury potatoes are more practical here than waxy ones: they break apart easily after cooking and make a light, cohesive mash. Boil them with their skins on, drain them well and peel them once they are cool enough to handle. Briefly letting the mash steam dry in the pan removes excess moisture. This helps the pie set firmly instead of turning wet or heavy. Mash the potatoes; a food processor can make them sticky.
Mozzarella naturally contains moisture, so drain fresh mozzarella beforehand and pat it dry. A firm mozzarella intended for cooking is also suitable. Cut the cheese and ham into thin slices so they are evenly distributed between the layers and the pie is easy to portion after baking. For a meat-free version, you can leave out the ham; don’t automatically add extra cheese, as a filling that is too wet makes the pie harder to slice. A pinch of nutmeg adds warmth without overpowering the flavour of the potatoes.
Butter and breadcrumbs are more than a layer to prevent sticking: they form the golden-brown crust that contrasts with the soft centre. Press the breadcrumbs onto the greased sides of the tin, too. Leave the baked gattò to stand for at least a quarter of an hour before loosening the edge and slicing. The cheese stays warm, but the mash has time to set. A low, sturdy tin bakes more evenly than a deep oven dish.
Serve the gattò as a main course with a green salad and a simple vinaigrette; the fresh acidity keeps the meal balanced. It also works as part of a larger meal, cut into smaller wedges. Once cooled, cover leftovers and refrigerate them within two hours; eat them within two days. Reheat portions in the oven until piping hot throughout; the crust will stay crisper than when reheated in the microwave.
Preheat the oven to 200 °C (180 °C fan). Generously butter a round baking dish or cake tin about 22 cm across. Sprinkle about two thirds of the breadcrumbs over the base and sides, then tap out the excess.
Boil the potatoes, unpeeled, in plenty of salted water for 25–30 minutes, until tender; a knife should slide into them easily. Drain, let them steam dry briefly and peel once they are cool enough to handle.
Mash the potatoes finely. Put the pan back over low heat for 1–2 minutes, stirring to let excess moisture evaporate. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter. Leave the mash to cool for a few minutes.
Beat the eggs and mix them into the mash with the Parmesan, nutmeg, salt and a few twists of black pepper.
Spread a little more than half of the potato mixture in the tin and press it into an even layer. Cut the mozzarella and ham into thin slices and arrange them over the mash, leaving a small clear border all the way around. Cover with the remaining potato mixture and smooth the top.
Sprinkle the remaining breadcrumbs over the top and dot with a few small pieces of butter. Bake the gattò for 40–45 minutes, until the top is golden brown and the edges look firm.
Leave the pie to rest for 15 minutes. Carefully loosen the edge with a knife and cut the gattò into wedges.
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