Nasu Dengaku with Eggplant, Sesame and Rice

Miso with a Caramelised Edge

Nasu dengaku is the Japanese name for eggplant with a sweet, savoury miso glaze. The combination of tender vegetables and a sticky, roasted topping is the defining idea behind this dish. The exact method varies: the eggplant can be grilled or roasted in the oven, for example. Here, it goes into the oven first so the flesh softens evenly; a short spell under the grill at the end gives the miso some colour without drying out the eggplant.

Score the flesh in a diamond pattern, but don’t cut through the skin. This lets the heat penetrate further and gives the glaze more surface to cling to. Eggplants vary in size, so don’t rely on the clock alone: the flesh should be soft when pierced with a knife. A thin layer of oil helps with roasting. The grill only goes on at the end; the sugar in the glaze can darken quickly, so keep an eye on the tray.

White miso has a mild, slightly sweeter flavour and works well with mirin and sugar. If you’re using a darker or saltier miso, brush the eggplant with a slightly thinner layer and taste the glaze before using it. Mirin adds sweetness and shine; if you don’t have any, you can replace it with the same amount of sake and an extra half teaspoon of sugar. The flavour will change a little, but the balance will stay close. Whisk the glaze until smooth with a little water so it spreads easily.

Serve the eggplant straight away with warm rice: it soaks up the salty-sweet glaze and turns the dish into a filling meal. Spring onion adds a fresh, sharp contrast, while sesame brings a light crunch. For a little extra green, serve a simple cucumber or leafy green salad on the side; keep the dressing fresh and light. If you make the rice ahead, cool any leftovers quickly and refrigerate them covered. Reheat the rice thoroughly and don’t leave cooked rice at room temperature for long.