ABOUT THIS RECIPERice, sambal and fresh contrasts
Nasi lemak loosely translates as ‘rich’ or ‘fatty’ rice: the rice is cooked with coconut milk, which makes it richer than plain steamed rice. Pandan adds a gentle, grassy aroma without making the rice sweet. The dish is closely associated with Malaysia, but the exact accompaniments and cooking methods vary from cook to cook and from region to region. That’s why the components belong together, but there is no single set way to assemble each plate.
Good nasi lemak is all about contrast. The rice is soft and mild; sambal ikan bilis brings heat, salt and the deep flavor of fried anchovies. Cucumber adds freshness, while egg and peanuts round out the plate with soft and crunchy bites. Serve the components side by side rather than mixing everything into the rice: that way, everyone can choose how much sambal and anchovy to have with each bite. Use a ripe, firm cucumber; it will stay crunchy even after slicing.
Rinse the rice until the water runs mostly clear. This removes loose starch and keeps the grains from becoming unnecessarily sticky. Pandan leaves are available at Asian supermarkets, often in the freezer section. Tie the leaf loosely so its aroma can escape easily. No pandan on hand? Leave it out; the coconut rice will still taste good, though it will miss that distinctive aroma. Use canned coconut milk and shake or stir it well first so the fat is evenly distributed.
Dried anchovies are essential for sambal ikan bilis: they give both the sauce and the garnish a distinctly salty, savory flavor. Fry some until crisp and set them aside; stir the rest into the sambal so they soften and release their flavor. Tamarind adds acidity to the sauce and tempers the rich mouthfeel of the coconut rice. If you don’t have tamarind paste, you can use a small splash of lime juice, but add it to taste: it has a fresher, less complex flavor.
Nasi lemak can be eaten for breakfast or lunch, but it also works as an evening meal. Put the bowls of sambal, peanuts, egg and cucumber on the table and serve the rice warm. If cooking ahead, cool cooked rice quickly and put it in the refrigerator within an hour. Keep it for no more than 24 hours and reheat it only once, until it is steaming hot throughout.