Hearty mushrooms soak up a dark, savory sauce made with caramel, soy sauce, garlic, and black pepper. Served with rice and crisp cucumber, they make a satisfying Vietnamese main course.
In Vietnamese cooking, kho refers to a way of braising ingredients gently in a seasoned, often salty sauce that becomes more concentrated as it cooks. The exact ingredients vary from dish to dish and household to household: fish, meat, and plant-based ingredients can all be the star. In nấm kho tiêu, mushrooms take center stage, and black pepper gives the sauce its signature warm, sharp edge. This recipe uses soy sauce; fish sauce gives the sauce a different, distinctly savory flavor.
Hearty mushrooms matter more here than having a wide variety. Shiitake mushrooms have a deep, earthy flavor and hold their shape; king oyster mushrooms are meaty and absorb the sauce well. Feel free to use just one kind. Regular button mushrooms work too, but release more liquid and become softer. Cut larger mushrooms into similarly sized pieces so they cook evenly. Mushrooms are available year-round; choose ones that feel firm and dry.
The caramel gives the sauce color and a touch of bittersweet depth, but it shouldn’t turn dark brown or smoky. If the sugar caramelizes too far, its bitterness will take over. The black pepper, on the other hand, should be clearly present: freshly ground pepper is more aromatic, while crushed peppercorns give little spicy bursts. Start with the amount listed and add more at the table if you like extra heat. A wide pan helps moisture evaporate, so the sauce clings to the mushrooms instead of pooling watery at the bottom.
Serve the mushrooms with plain steamed rice to soak up the salty sauce. Thin slices of cucumber with lime and salt add freshness and crunch alongside the soft, glossy mushrooms. You can also replace the cucumber with a simple salad of crisp lettuce and herbs. Keep the sides lightly seasoned so the peppery sauce remains the star.
Store leftover mushrooms and rice separately, covered, in the refrigerator, and eat them within two days. Reheat the mushrooms in a small pan over low heat with a splash of water, until they’re piping hot throughout. Cool the rice quickly after cooking and put it straight in the refrigerator; reheat only the portion you’re going to eat. The cucumber is best fresh, so keep it out of the container with the braise.
Rinse the rice until the water runs mostly clear. Cook the rice according to the package directions and keep it covered and warm.
Cut the shiitake mushrooms into halves or quarters and the king oyster mushrooms into pieces about 3 cm across. Thinly slice the cucumber and toss with the lime juice and salt. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a wide, heavy pan over medium-high heat. Gently cook the shallot for 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds.
Put the sugar and 2 tablespoons water in a small saucepan. Heat over medium-high heat without stirring until the syrup turns amber. Remove from the heat and carefully pour in the remaining 120 ml hot water; watch out for splattering. Stir until the caramel dissolves.
Add the mushrooms to the pan with the shallot and garlic and cook for 4 minutes, until they begin to soften. Pour in the caramel syrup and soy sauce and add the black pepper.
Bring to a boil, turn the heat to low, and simmer gently, uncovered, for 15–20 minutes. Stir occasionally. Remove the pan from the heat as soon as the sauce is glossy and clings to the mushrooms. Serve with the rice and crisp cucumber.
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