Mushroom Tartare with Capers and Rye Crackers

Browned edges, fresh contrasts

This tartare starts with chestnut mushrooms, but the method deliberately differs from a classic tartare: the mushrooms are cooked first. This evaporates their moisture and gives the small pieces browned edges while keeping them juicy inside. Chop them finely, but not to a pulp; pieces of about half a centimetre give the mixture enough bite. Chestnut mushrooms are readily available all year round. Brush them clean or wipe them with a lightly damp cloth so they go into the pan as dry as possible.

A large, well-heated frying pan matters more than extra oil. If needed, cook the mushrooms in two batches: a crowded pan cools quickly, causing the mushrooms to steam rather than brown. Stir regularly only once most of the moisture has evaporated. Then leave the cooked pieces to cool completely before adding the shallot, capers, mustard, lemon and parsley. This keeps the parsley fresh and stops the shallot from softening in the heat.

Capers bring saltiness and a little acidity; rinse them briefly if they taste very salty, then pat dry. Dijon mustard brings the flavours together without overpowering the mushrooms. Use lemon juice sparingly and taste after mixing: capers and mustard vary in sharpness and saltiness. No parsley on hand? Finely chopped chives work too, with a milder onion flavour. For a richer herb cream, you can replace some of the crème fraîche with thick yoghurt, but avoid very runny yoghurt.

The rye crackers provide a dry, crisp contrast to the soft mushrooms. Spoon the tartare onto them just before serving; otherwise, moisture will seep into the crackers. You can also serve the crackers separately and let everyone spoon on the tartare. Serve as a starter, with three small crackers per person, or make it a light lunch with a green salad. Keep the herb cream chilled until needed. Store any leftover cooked mushrooms covered in the refrigerator and use within two days; top the crackers at the last moment.