ABOUT THIS RECIPEA Soft Pudding with Bright Accents
Muhallabia is a milk pudding eaten in different parts of the Middle East. The exact ingredients and finishing touches vary from household to household and from region to region. In this version, the pudding itself stays simple: milk, sugar and cornstarch make a smooth, mild base. Apricot, lemon, rosewater and pistachio are added just before serving, so you can taste the soft pudding alongside the fresh fruit and crunchy nuts.
Cornstarch thickens quickly once the milk gets hot. First, mix it with some of the cold milk to make a smooth paste; this helps prevent lumps. Heat the remaining milk with the sugar, then pour in the paste while stirring. Keep whisking gently and take the pan off the heat as soon as the pudding is thick enough to cling to the whisk. If you let it cook for too long, it will become firmer and less silky. The pudding will continue to thicken as it chills.
Fresh apricots are mostly available in summer. Choose ripe fruit that still holds its shape when cut. A brief simmer in water, sugar and lemon juice makes them juicy and glossy without turning them into purée. Out of season, you can use frozen apricots; thaw them first and expect a slightly softer texture. Dried apricots are not a direct substitute: they need to soak or cook for longer and produce a more concentrated, sweeter result.
The intensity of rosewater varies considerably by brand. Add it off the heat, and if you like, start with half a teaspoon; it should complement the apricot, not overpower it. Don’t have rosewater on hand? Leave it out rather than replacing it with a large amount of vanilla or another pronounced flavor. Pistachio adds a savory note and a crunchy contrast; chop the nuts coarsely so they don’t get lost in the soft dessert.
Divide the pudding among four glasses or small bowls and leave it covered to set in the refrigerator for at least three hours. You can make the pudding a day ahead. Keep the apricots separate and spoon them on just before serving, along with the syrup and pistachio. This keeps the nuts crunchy and stops the fruit from spreading over the whole surface. Serve the pudding well chilled, as a light dessert after a spiced meal or as part of a table of small sweet dishes.