ABOUT THIS RECIPEMellow, savory and with a bright edge
The balance of flavors in this dish starts with the pumpkin. In the oven, the cubes turn soft inside and develop browned, slightly sweet edges. White miso adds savory umami, while lemon brightens the sauce and keeps the dish from tasting too heavy. White miso is usually milder and a little sweeter than red miso; if you use red miso, start with a little less and taste before adding more, as the flavor and salt content can vary.
Pumpkin is widely available in the Netherlands, especially in autumn, but winter squash is often available in shops for longer. Butternut squash is handy because it has few strings and relatively thin skin; peeling it is easiest for this recipe. Firm orange pumpkin works too. Cut the pieces to roughly the same size so they cook evenly. Give them room on the baking sheet: if they’re crowded, they’ll steam rather than caramelize.
The chickpeas add a different kind of bite. Patting them thoroughly dry helps them get crispier in the oven, but they’ll lose some crispness once they come into contact with sauce or moisture. Keep them separate until serving. Canned chickpeas are convenient; dried chickpeas work too, as long as they’re fully cooked first. The noodles release starch into the cooking water. A splash of it turns the miso, lemon and sesame oil into a glossy sauce that clings to the wide noodles. Add the water a little at a time: the sauce should be smooth, not watery.
Use wide wheat noodles or udon; cooking times vary by type, so follow the package instructions and taste for doneness. If you don’t have miso, the dish will have a noticeably different character; a spoonful of soy sauce can add some savoriness, but it lacks miso’s full, fermented flavor. The spring onions add a fresh, sharp note, so slice them just before serving. Serve the noodles straight away, topped with the crispy chickpeas. Once cooled, leftovers can be covered and stored in the fridge, then eaten within two days; the chickpeas will lose their crisp texture. Reheat the noodles thoroughly and add a small splash of water if needed.