Mercimek köftesi: Turkish lentil and bulgur balls

Hearty lentils, bright lemon

Mercimek köftesi has a soft base of red lentils and fine bulgur, seasoned with ingredients such as tomato paste, cumin and pul biber. The mixture is usually shaped into oblong pieces and eaten cold or at room temperature. Lettuce leaves, parsley and lemon add freshness alongside the spiced, earthy lentils. The bulgur provides texture and makes the köftes firm enough to pick up; the dish is meant to be scooped into or wrapped in a lettuce leaf.

The ratio of liquid to bulgur determines how easily the mixture holds its shape. Red lentils cook quickly until soft and mostly break apart. After cooking, don’t leave more water in the pan than necessary: lentils that are too wet will make the mixture loose. Stir the fine bulgur into the lentils while they’re still hot, then cover the pan. The bulgur absorbs the remaining moisture and cooks without further heating. Use fine köftelik bulgur, not coarse bulgur; coarse bulgur needs more liquid and time and has a different bite.

Onion, briefly fried in oil with tomato paste and spices, adds depth and helps distribute the flavour evenly through the mixture. Pul biber adds a mild-to-hot, fruity pepper note; its heat varies by brand. If you don’t have any, replace it with a smaller amount of chilli flakes, or leave them out and add a little mild paprika instead. You’ll get a better sense of the lemon juice once the lentils and bulgur are mixed. Add it gradually and taste before shaping the köftes.

Knead the mixture by hand until it holds together, but first let it cool enough to handle comfortably. If it’s still crumbly, add a tablespoon of warm water; if it feels sticky and loose, let it cool longer or mix in a small amount of extra fine bulgur. Shape oblong portions with slightly damp hands. They don’t have to be exactly the same size, but evenly shaped köftes are easy to share.

Set out lettuce leaves, chopped parsley and lemon wedges so everyone can assemble their own. A firm head of lettuce such as romaine or little gem stays nicely crisp. Serve the köftes for lunch, or put them out with extra raw vegetables as part of a larger meal. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and eat them within three days; keep the lettuce and lemon separate until serving. They’re generally eaten cold or at room temperature, so there’s no need to reheat them.