ABOUT THIS RECIPESweet fruit, salty feta
The flavor of this dish depends on ripe, fragrant fruit and tomatoes that really taste like tomatoes. Cantaloupe or Galia melon makes for soft, sweet slices; choose one that yields slightly at the stem and doesn’t smell mealy. The tomatoes should be firm and ripe so they hold their shape when sliced. Both ingredients are often at their best in summer. Out of season, a ripe vine tomato or Roma tomato can work better than a pale, watery beefsteak tomato.
The different cuts make the platter livelier and help the ingredients keep their own textures. Cut the melon into thin fans or half-moons and the tomatoes into wedges. Small cherry tomatoes can be halved. If the tomatoes are very juicy, you can briefly pat them dry with a paper towel; this helps keep their juices from thinning the dressing. Don’t mix the dressing into everything ahead of time—drizzle it over just before serving.
Feta is naturally firm and salty. Whipping it smooth with a little Greek yogurt makes it spreadable and adds enough freshness to keep it from tasting heavy. A small food processor works quickly, but you can also use a fork and whisk: crumble the cheese as finely as possible first, then gradually whisk in the yogurt. The feta will remain slightly grainy; that’s fine. Don’t add extra salt before tasting.
Sherry vinegar brings a mild, rounded acidity that brings the sweetness of the melon and the savory feta together. Red wine vinegar is a good alternative, but has a more pronounced flavor. Use a fruity olive oil and keep the amount of vinegar modest; you can always add a few drops more. Toast the pumpkin seeds briefly in a dry skillet and let them cool before adding them to the dish. This keeps them crunchy instead of softening the feta.
Take the melon and tomatoes out of the fridge about twenty minutes before serving. Serving them chilled keeps the dish refreshing, while taking the edge off the cold lets their aromas and flavors come through. Spread the feta in broad stripes or small dollops on a platter so every serving includes both cheese and fruit. This starter goes well before grilled vegetables, fish or chicken; with bread, it can also make a light lunch. It’s best served as soon as it’s assembled, because cut tomatoes and melon release liquid over time.