ABOUT THIS RECIPEEggplant with Tender Edges
Melanzane a funghetto is a Neapolitan way of preparing eggplant in small cubes, fried and then briefly combined with tomato, garlic and basil. The name refers to the way the eggplant is prepared; the dish contains no mushrooms. The combination is simple, but the order makes a difference: first, the eggplant browns in the pan, then it absorbs some tomato sauce without falling apart.
Eggplant is widely available in summer and early autumn. Choose specimens that feel firm and have smooth, shiny skin. Cut them into cubes of about two centimetres; evenly sized pieces cook more evenly. Modern eggplants generally don't need to be salted beforehand to remove bitterness. Do pat wet cut surfaces dry, though, so the oil splatters less and the cubes fry better.
Fry in batches in a large frying pan. If the pan is too crowded, moisture is released and the eggplant steams rather than browns. Use enough oil to fry the cubes all over, and add a splash more between batches if needed. Eggplant absorbs oil; that's part of the preparation. Then leave the fried cubes to drain briefly, but don't press them flat. A juicy interior and browned edges give the dish its contrast.
Ripe fresh tomatoes work well when they're in season. Outside that period, you can use canned peeled tomatoes: drain them and chop them small so the sauce doesn't become too watery. Gently fry the garlic in a little olive oil and remove it from the pan before it darkens; burnt garlic makes the tomato bitter. Let the tomato simmer briefly to reduce, and only fold in the eggplant at the end. Add the basil last so the leaves stay fresh.
This is different from Sicilian caponata, which usually also includes ingredients such as celery and vinegar for a pronounced sweet-and-sour flavour. Melanzane a funghetto has a more straightforward flavour: tender eggplant, mild tomato and fragrant basil. Serve it as an antipasto with crusty bread, or alongside grilled fish or meat. It's also suitable for making ahead: let it cool, cover and refrigerate, and serve within two days. Bring it to room temperature before serving; that way, you can taste the basil and tomato better.