ABOUT THIS RECIPESweet, salty and a squeeze of lime
This side dish pairs pumpkin with ikan bilis: small dried anchovies used in Malaysian kitchens, among other things, for their salty, savory flavor. A quick fry gives them a toasty aroma and a firm bite. The pumpkin is soft and mildly sweet, while garlic and chili make the base spicy and fragrant. Lime juice added at the end brings acidity and keeps the sweetness and salt from feeling too heavy.
Choose a firm pumpkin that holds its shape after cooking. Butternut squash works well and is easy to cut into even cubes; a firm orange pumpkin also works, but cooking time varies by type and size. Cubes of about two centimeters cook quickly and evenly. Cut them as evenly as possible and test with the tip of a knife: the pumpkin should be tender but not falling apart.
Ikan bilis is often available at Asian grocery stores and shops that carry Southeast Asian ingredients. Rinse the fish briefly if they are very salty or dusty, then pat them thoroughly dry; wet fish won’t fry as well. Fry them first in a thin layer of oil and remove them from the pan so they don’t soften while the pumpkin cooks. A small splash of water creates steam and cooks the cubes through without turning the dish into a soup. Keep the heat gentle and add an extra tablespoon of water if the pan looks like it’s drying out.
The dried anchovies give this dish its character, so don’t quietly swap them for fresh fish. If you can’t find ikan bilis, you can add a little fish sauce at the end for saltiness, but you’ll miss the fried bite; it’s a practical adjustment, not a like-for-like substitute. Adjust the amount of chili to taste. A mild red chili adds aroma and color, while a hotter variety brings noticeably more heat.
Serve the pumpkin as a side dish with warm rice and, for example, a vegetable or fish dish. Spoon over the flavorful liquid from the pan, too. The lime is best added just before serving; only then taste to see if more salt is needed, as ikan bilis can already be quite salty. This dish is meant to be eaten warm, when the pumpkin is soft and the anchovies still have some bite.