ABOUT THIS RECIPECrisp edges, spiced centre
Karipap are recognisable Malaysian pastries, often filled with potato and curry. Their shape resembles a small half-moon: a round of dough is folded over the filling and pinched or pleated closed along the edge. There are all kinds of fillings, including versions with chicken or fish. This version puts the potato centre stage, so the soft, spiced inside contrasts clearly with the thin, crisp crust.
The filling starts with onion, garlic and curry leaves, briefly fried in oil. Frying the spices for a moment lets their aromas infuse the oil and helps distribute them throughout the potato. Curry powder varies in heat and composition by brand, so taste the filling before spooning it into the dough. Don’t have curry leaves? Leave them out rather than using a completely different herb. The pastries will still have their characteristic spiced flavour.
Choose waxy potatoes if you want cubes that hold their shape, or slightly flourier potatoes for a softer, more cohesive filling. Cut the cubes small and roughly the same size so they cook evenly. Let the filling cool completely before shaping the pastries: warm filling makes the dough limp and can push the seam open. A sheet of dough about two to three millimetres thick is thin enough to fry crisp, but sturdy enough to hold the filling.
Fry the karipap in neutral oil at a medium-high temperature. If the oil is too hot, the dough will brown before the crust is properly crisp; in oil that’s too cool, the pastries absorb more fat. Fry in small batches so the temperature doesn’t drop too much, and drain them on a rack or paper towels. A thermometer makes it easier to check the temperature, but isn’t essential: a small piece of dough should bubble gently and turn golden gradually.
Serve them warm as part of a table with several dishes, or serve them as a savoury snack with the fresh chili sauce on the side. The sauce of red chili, lime and a little sugar brings acidity, heat and a touch of sweetness without overpowering the spices in the filling. Store any leftover, cooled pastries covered in the refrigerator and reheat them in an oven at 180 °C until crisp again. Store the sauce separately in the refrigerator.