ABOUT THIS RECIPESpinach in gentle coconut sauce
Bayam masak lemak is a Malaysian vegetable dish in which leafy greens are briefly cooked in a coconut milk-based sauce. Bayam refers to spinach here; other vegetables can also be used in dishes prepared this way. The exact ingredients vary from recipe to recipe. This version sticks to spinach, shallot, turmeric, chili and lemongrass, keeping the green vegetable at the center and the sauce mild and fragrant.
Full-fat coconut milk gives the sauce body and rounds out spinach’s slightly bitter flavor. Turmeric brings a warm, earthy note and a yellow color, while lemongrass adds a fresh citrus aroma without making the sauce sour. A small red chili gives it a gentle kick; remove the seeds or use less chili if you want to keep the dish really mild. Bruise the lemongrass stalk before adding it to the pan so its fragrance can escape more easily.
Let the coconut milk simmer gently rather than boil vigorously. A coconut milk sauce can look grainy or split if it boils hard; gentle heating and occasional stirring keep the texture smooth. Spinach only needs a short time in the pan: the leaves should wilt while retaining their color and a little firmness. So add them right at the end. Use a roomy pan so you can toss the leaves in batches without pressing them together.
Fresh spinach is readily available year-round and is often locally grown in the cooler months; young leaves wilt quickly, while larger leaves may need an extra minute. Wash the spinach thoroughly and let it drain, or any water clinging to it will thin the sauce. No fresh turmeric on hand? A teaspoon of ground turmeric works just fine. Lemongrass is harder to replace; you could use a small piece of lime zest for a fresh aroma, but expect a slightly different flavor.
Serve the vegetable dish straight away, with white rice to soak up the coconut sauce. It also makes a good counterpoint to a spicy main course, for example one with sambal or spiced fish. Spoon the spinach onto the table with plenty of sauce and remove the lemongrass stalk before serving. If you have any left over, cool it promptly, cover and refrigerate it, then reheat gently until piping hot; the spinach will become softer.