ABOUT THIS RECIPETwo Sides of Fennel
This side dish is all about the contrast between soft, earthy lentils and fennel that tastes both fresh and roasted. Some of the fennel stays raw: sliced paper-thin, it adds crunch and a light anise flavor. The rest gets dark edges in a hot pan. This makes it milder and a little sweeter, without turning completely soft. Dill adds a fresh herbal note; lemon and mustard keep everything lively.
Green lentils are a good choice here because they hold their shape after cooking. Brown lentils work too, but check them earlier: depending on the variety and age, they may cook faster or more slowly. Red or yellow lentils usually fall apart and give the dish a very different, softer texture. Cook the lentils until tender but still with a little bite, and drain them as soon as they’re ready. If they get too soft, the salad will be mushy rather than hearty.
The vinaigrette mixes in most easily while the lentils are warm. They absorb some of the lemon, vinegar and mustard, while the oil gives the flavor a rounder finish. Let the lentils steam dry briefly after draining; excess cooking water will make the dressing watery. Then taste again. Lentils often need a little more salt and acidity than you might expect, and the amount of lemon juice can vary from one fruit to another.
To sear the fennel, use a large, very hot frying pan and arrange the pieces in a single layer. That way, they’ll brown rather than steam. A thin layer of oil helps with browning, but don’t cook the fennel for too long: a little bite makes the contrast with the soft lentils more interesting. If fresh dill isn’t available, replace it with flat-leaf parsley; the flavor will be less pronounced, but still fresh. You can replace a teaspoon of Dijon mustard with wholegrain mustard, which adds a little more texture.
Serve the dish lukewarm with pan-fried fish, or with roasted root vegetables as part of a vegetarian meal. It can also be made ahead: cover and refrigerate it within two hours of preparation. Use within three days. Take it out of the refrigerator a little before serving; the flavors will come through better. If you like, gently warm just the lentils, then fold in the raw fennel and dill so they stay crisp.