ABOUT THIS RECIPETender inside, browned on the cut side
Leeks have a mild, slightly sweet flavor. Cooking the halved leeks covered in the oven first makes the leaves tender without drying out the outside. Then the cut sides are browned in a hot pan. These two steps create more contrast than simply boiling or roasting: the inside stays tender, while the seared side takes on a heartier, roasted aroma. Drain the leeks well after washing; any water left behind makes browning them more difficult.
Leeks are most widely available in the Netherlands during the cooler months, but you can find them year-round. Choose firm stalks with fresh, perky leaves. Halve the stalks lengthwise and rinse well between the layers, where grit can collect. Leave most of the root end intact when cutting: it helps hold the leek halves together as they cook and are turned. The oven makes them tender; the hot pan is just for browning, not for cooking them through again.
Dijon mustard binds the white wine vinegar and oil into a vinaigrette that clings to the leeks. Its acidity cuts through the vegetable’s soft, sweet flavor, while the mustard adds a kick. Taste the dressing before spooning it over the dish: mustard brands vary in sharpness and saltiness. If the vinegar is very sharp, add a small splash of oil; keep the dressing fresh enough to balance the leeks. You can substitute mild cider vinegar for the white wine vinegar. Wholegrain mustard works too, but makes for a grainier dressing.
Hazelnuts bring a warm, roasted flavor and a satisfying bite. Toast them gently in a dry pan and keep an eye on them; once they become fragrant, they can darken quickly. The lentils add a heartier, crispy note and make the dish more substantial. Use cooked lentils from a can or jar, and dry them carefully before adding them to the pan. They won’t all turn equally crisp, but they will develop toasted edges. No hazelnuts on hand? Roasted sunflower seeds are a practical substitute, though their flavor is milder.
Serve this dish as a side with pan-fried fish, chicken or a savory vegetable tart; with bread and a green salad, it also makes a light lunch. Spoon the vinaigrette over the leeks and add the lentils and nuts at the last moment to preserve their texture. Store any leftovers covered in the refrigerator and eat them within three days. The lentils will soften, so keep them separate if you want them to stay crisp.