Lebanese Tomato Rice with Fried Vermicelli

Tomato as the Base, Vermicelli for Balance

Rice with vermicelli is a familiar preparation in several Levantine cuisines, including Lebanese cuisine. In this version, tomato is a key part of the dish: ripe tomatoes and onion cook down into a thick, savory sauce, and the rice finishes cooking in it. The result is different from plain white rice with vermicelli served on the side. The tomato colors the grains and gives them a mild, slightly sweet-and-sour flavor. The vermicelli remains distinct among the rice and adds toasted notes.

Use ripe, fragrant tomatoes, as they determine the flavor of the sauce. Fresh tomatoes are often at their best in summer; out of season, firm, flavorful store-bought tomatoes work well too. Coarsely grate them into a bowl or chop them finely. Let them cook down sufficiently with the onion: a watery sauce makes it harder to cook the rice evenly. Tomatoes vary in how much liquid they contain, so focus on the thickness of the sauce and add the measured water only once the tomato has concentrated.

Browning the vermicelli takes attention. Break the strands into short pieces and stir them in hot olive oil until evenly golden brown; they will continue to brown a little afterward. Take them out of the pan in time, as they quickly turn bitter once they get too dark. Stirring the rice through the tomato sauce first coats the grains with oil and sauce. Then everything cooks, covered, over low heat. Keep the lid on so the steam stays in the pan and the rice cooks evenly.

Medium-grain rice gives a soft, substantial bite; long-grain rice works too, but generally stays looser. Rinse the rice first until the water is almost clear, then drain it well so excess starch and rinse water don't throw off the proportions. If your tomatoes are particularly juicy, cook the sauce down a little longer. A splash of extra water is only needed if the rice is still firm after the stated cooking time and the pan looks dry.

Serve the rice as a main dish with cold yogurt and parsley. A simple salad of cucumber, herbs and lemon goes well with it if you'd like a fresher, more substantial plate. The rice also works as a side dish with fried eggplant or grilled chicken. Once cooled, store leftovers in a sealed container in the refrigerator and reheat them thoroughly, with a small splash of water to loosen the rice again.