ABOUT THIS RECIPETomatoes Given Time
Banadoura harra means spicy tomatoes and refers to a preparation in which tomato takes center stage. The exact seasoning varies from cook to cook and from household to household; here, the combination is kept simple: ripe tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, chili, and coriander. The result isn’t a smooth tomato sauce. By chopping the tomatoes coarsely and not stirring them too finely as they stew, you’re left with distinct, soft pieces in a concentrated, glossy cooking liquid.
The quality and ripeness of the tomatoes have a big effect on the flavor. In summer, locally grown tomatoes are often at their sweetest and juiciest; outside that season, choose the ripest ones you can find. Meaty tomatoes release relatively little liquid, while juicy tomatoes may take a little longer to cook down. So taste toward the end: the sauce should taste full and savory, with enough freshness from the tomatoes and coriander to balance the chili. Extra sugar usually isn’t needed if the tomatoes are properly ripe.
A gentle simmer matters more here than a hard fry. Olive oil carries the flavor of the garlic and chili, but don’t let the garlic brown: it can taste bitter. Once the tomatoes are added, let the liquid evaporate over low to medium-low heat. Stir gently from time to time, and lower the heat if the sauce threatens to cook dry before the tomatoes are soft. You’re looking for a thick, spoonable sauce, not a dry pan or a smooth purée.
Fresh coriander gives the dish its herby, green counterpoint. Some can simmer with the tomatoes so its flavor infuses the sauce; add the rest at the end for a fresher note. No coriander on hand? Flat-leaf parsley is a useful substitute, though the flavor will be milder. Adjust the amount of chili to suit the pepper’s heat and your preference. A mild green pepper also works, but brings less heat than a small red chili.
Serve the tomatoes warm or at room temperature with flatbread, as part of a table with several dishes, or alongside grilled vegetables and meat. Spoon up the liquid too: that’s where the concentrated flavor is. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and chill them within two hours of cooking; use within three days. Reheat them gently in a pan until everything is piping hot, or serve them cold as part of a mezze-style meal.