A large, golden-brown rösti makes a hearty base for gently braised leeks and a creamy sauce with wholegrain mustard and lemon. The outside turns crisp, while the sauce adds freshness and the leeks bring softness.
This rösti is all about contrast: grated potato cooks into a firm, crispy cake, while leeks slowly soften in butter and a cool mustard cream adds freshness. Wholegrain mustard brings little sharp notes; lemon juice and zest lift the cream and the leeks’ sweetness. Together, they turn simple ingredients into a satisfying main course, without the sauce having to drown the rösti.
Floury potatoes are best: they give you a light interior and brown beautifully. After grating, it’s important to squeeze them well, because excess moisture will make the cake soggy rather than crisp. A clean tea towel works well for this. Let the liquid you squeeze out sit for a moment, then carefully pour off the water; you can stir the starch left at the bottom back into the potato. It helps the rösti hold together without egg or flour.
A heavy frying pan about 26 centimeters across distributes the heat evenly. Don’t make the cake too thick, and keep the heat moderate: that gives the outside time to brown while the inside cooks through. Using a plate makes flipping easier than trying to turn the whole rösti in the air. After flipping, let the cake cook on gently. If your pan is smaller, make the rösti a little thicker and allow for some extra cooking time; check the center with a thin knife.
Leeks are widely available in the Netherlands, especially from autumn to spring, but this dish can be made all year round. Cut the leeks open lengthwise and rinse between the layers, where grit often gets trapped. A splash of water in the pan helps the leeks braise until soft without burning. Crème fraîche gives the sauce a pleasantly fresh, tangy flavor; full-fat yogurt also works, but stir it in cold and don’t heat it. Use Dijon mustard if you don’t have wholegrain mustard, though you’ll miss its grainy bite.
Serve the rösti straight away, while the edges are crisp, with the leeks on top or alongside and the mustard cream on the side so everyone can add as much as they like. A green salad with a sharp vinaigrette goes well with the creamy dish. Leftovers can be covered and kept in the fridge for up to two days. Reheat the rösti in a frying pan over medium-low heat; this will crisp up the outside better than a microwave. Store the sauce separately and add it at the table.
Peel the potatoes and coarsely grate them. Put the grated potato in a clean tea towel and squeeze out as much liquid as possible over a bowl. Let the liquid sit for a few minutes, carefully pour off the water, and stir the sediment left behind back into the potato. Mix with ¾ tsp salt and the black pepper.
Cut the leek open lengthwise, rinse the layers thoroughly, and slice into half-moons. Melt 15 g butter in a pan over medium-low heat. Add the leek and water, cover, and braise for 12–15 minutes, until the leek is soft. Stir occasionally; remove the lid for the last few minutes if there is still a lot of liquid in the pan.
Meanwhile, stir together the crème fraîche, wholegrain mustard, lemon zest, lemon juice, and the remaining ¼ tsp salt. Set the mustard cream aside.
Heat 1 tbsp oil and the remaining 15 g butter in a frying pan about 26 cm across over medium-low heat. Spread the potato evenly in the pan and press it into a cake about 2 cm thick. Cook uncovered for 12–15 minutes, until the underside is deep golden brown and the edges look firm.
Place a large plate over the pan and turn the rösti out onto it. Add the remaining 1 tbsp oil to the pan, then carefully slide the rösti back in, uncooked side down. Cook for another 10–12 minutes, until that side is golden brown too and a thin knife passes easily through the center.
Place the rösti on a serving platter and spoon the braised leeks over it, or serve them alongside. Serve the mustard cream separately to keep the rösti crisp.
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