ABOUT THIS RECIPEWarm Spices, Fresh Counterpoints
The flavor of these meatballs starts with cumin, coriander seeds and garlic. Cumin brings an earthy, warm note; coriander seeds are citrusy and lightly floral. Briefly toasting the seeds in a dry pan and then grinding them finely helps release their aroma. Don’t let them darken, or they’ll turn bitter. Ground coriander works too, but use a little less: its aroma is often stronger and less distinctly fresh.
A small egg and breadcrumbs help hold the ground lamb together without making the meatballs compact. Briefly mix the lamb with the spices and shape it into walnut-sized balls; kneading for too long makes them firm. Brown them in batches in a large frying pan so they fry rather than steam. The browned edges add flavor to the sauce. Then they finish cooking gently in sieved tomatoes with a splash of water. Keep the heat low: boiling hard can dry out the meatballs and make the sauce splatter.
The tomato sauce is deliberately light. It should surround the meatballs, not turn into a thick stew. Sieved tomatoes work well, but a can of finely chopped tomatoes will also do; use a spoon to break up any larger pieces a little more. Taste for salt and pepper at the end. Tomatoes vary in acidity, so if the sauce tastes sharp, let it simmer gently for a few more minutes instead of adding sugar straight away.
The yogurt gets mint and lemon, two fresh flavors that balance the rich lamb and warm spices. Pomegranate seeds add a juicy, slightly tart bite; they’re often easiest to find in the Netherlands in autumn and winter, but packaged seeds are a practical alternative. Spoon the yogurt onto the dish just before serving so the sauce stays warm and the seeds keep their fresh texture. Serve with flatbread to mop up the sauce; couscous or rice can be served alongside if you want a more substantial meal. If you like, put the yogurt and pomegranate on the table separately so everyone can help themselves.