Shiitake, oyster mushrooms and button mushrooms are quickly fried over high heat, so they develop browned edges and stay firm. Garlic, spring onion, soy sauce and sesame oil give this Korean bokkeum its savory, nutty flavor.
Bokkeum refers to a cooking method in which ingredients are stir-fried or fried. Mushroom bokkeum works as banchan: a small side dish served alongside rice and other dishes. The combination of shiitake, oyster mushrooms and button mushrooms provides a range of textures and flavors without requiring a long ingredient list. Shiitake are firm and deeply savory, oyster mushrooms turn soft but retain some bite, and button mushrooms provide a familiar, milder base.
The key technique is to cook the mushrooms quickly over high heat. Mushrooms contain a lot of moisture; in an overcrowded or insufficiently preheated pan, that moisture is released and they are more likely to steam than brown. So cook them in batches in a large frying pan and give them a little time to make contact with the pan. Stir only once the undersides are browned. Pat wet mushrooms dry rather than washing them for a long time, and cut the varieties into pieces that will cook in about the same amount of time.
Add the garlic and spring onion only once the mushrooms have already browned. This gives the garlic flavor without burning it. Soy sauce adds salt and umami; add it at the end so it lightly coats the mushrooms rather than creating a pool of liquid in the pan. Sesame oil is mainly for a fragrant finishing touch. Toasted sesame seeds add a little crunch. Taste before serving: soy sauces vary in saltiness, so extra salt usually isn’t needed.
For a different mix, use the same total amount of mushrooms: chestnut mushrooms, king oyster mushrooms or extra shiitake work well. Trim the tough shiitake stems; the softer stems of oyster mushrooms can be used too. Tamari can replace the soy sauce, although the flavor may be a little different. Serve the bokkeum warm or at room temperature with steamed rice, a bowl of soup or several small side dishes. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and eat them within three days; reheat them briefly in a hot pan so the mushrooms don’t cook for longer than necessary.
Wipe the mushrooms clean with paper towels or a soft brush. Remove the tough shiitake stems and slice the shiitake and button mushrooms. Tear the oyster mushrooms into bite-sized strips.
Heat a large frying pan over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of neutral oil and fry about half the mushrooms in a single layer. Leave them for 1 to 2 minutes, then toss and fry for another 2 minutes, until browned. Transfer to a plate.
Add the remaining oil and mushrooms and brown this batch as well. Return the first batch to the pan.
Add the garlic and the white part of the spring onions. Cook, tossing, for 30 seconds. Pour the soy sauce around the edge of the pan and toss everything briefly.
Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the sesame oil and the green part of the spring onions. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and serve warm or at room temperature.
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