Creamy coconut broth, tender chicken and egg noodles are the foundation of this Northern Thai soup. Crispy noodles, pickled mustard greens, shallot and lime bring freshness and contrast to every bowl.
Khao soi kai brings together a range of textures: soft egg noodles and chicken in a spiced coconut broth, topped with a nest of crispy noodles. Kai means chicken; the soup is made in a variety of versions in Northern Thailand. The exact curry paste and garnishes can vary. In this version, dried chili, ginger, turmeric, cumin and coriander seeds give the broth warmth and aroma. Coconut milk softens those spices, while lime and pickled mustard greens brighten the whole dish.
The flavor also depends on the curry paste. Grinding it yourself lets you control the amount of chili and the texture: a smooth paste blends easily into the broth, while a slightly coarser one keeps the spice notes more pronounced. Soak dried chili first, or it will be difficult to grind finely. A mortar and pestle works well, but a small food processor is practical. Shrimp paste adds a salty, savory depth. That flavor is familiar in many Thai curry pastes; don’t simply leave it out if you want to get close to the intended taste. Use an amount that suits the strength of the product.
The crispy noodles are more than decoration: they stay crunchy while the cooked noodles soak up the broth. Use fresh egg noodles and separate them well before they go into the hot oil. Fry small batches, as damp or clumped noodles can splatter and cook unevenly. Pickled mustard greens are available at Asian grocery stores. Rinse them briefly if they’re very salty or sour. Alternatively, you can use finely sliced pickled cabbage; the flavor is different, but it also makes a tangy, crunchy contrast.
Bone-in chicken thighs give the broth extra flavor as they simmer and stay tender, but they take longer to cook than boneless thigh fillets. If you use thigh fillets, check sooner to see whether the chicken is cooked through. Use unsweetened coconut milk and unsalted broth so you can adjust the saltiness yourself with fish sauce. Serve the toppings separately at the table so everyone can choose how much shallot, mustard greens and lime to add to their bowl. Eat the soup straight away, while the crispy noodles still have their crunch.
Soak the chilies in hot water for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, toast the coriander and cumin seeds in a dry frying pan until fragrant, about 1 minute. Leave to cool and grind finely.
Drain the chilies and, if you prefer a milder paste, remove the seeds. Grind them with the ground spices, chopped shallots, garlic, ginger, turmeric, curry powder and shrimp paste in a mortar and pestle or small food processor to make a paste.
Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large pan over medium heat. Fry the curry paste for 3–4 minutes, stirring regularly. Add the chicken thighs and turn them so they’re coated in the paste.
Pour in the coconut milk and broth. Bring gently to a boil and simmer uncovered for 35–45 minutes, until the meat is cooked through and tender. Stir in the fish sauce and palm sugar, then taste the broth.
Heat the frying oil in a heavy-based pan to 170 °C. Separate 100 g of the egg noodles and make sure they’re dry. Deep-fry in small batches for 30–60 seconds, until crispy. Drain on paper towels.
Cook the remaining 300 g of egg noodles according to the package directions. Divide them among four bowls and ladle the hot broth and chicken over the top.
Garnish each bowl with crispy noodles. Serve the pickled mustard greens, shallot rings and lime wedges separately at the table, so everyone can add them to taste.
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