ABOUT THIS RECIPEA plate of contrasts
Khao kluk kapi is a Central Thai rice dish in which fragrant rice is mixed with shrimp paste and served with a variety of garnishes. The paste brings a salty, concentrated umami flavour; the other components aren’t just there for colour. Sweet pork tempers the savouriness, green mango adds acidity and crunch, and shallot and chilli bring sharp, fresh notes. The thin omelette softens the meal and mellows the flavours. You decide the proportions on your plate, so every bite can taste different.
Jasmine rice makes a natural base thanks to its fragrance and soft, slightly sticky grains. Cooked rice that has cooled completely fries up more loosely than warm, moist rice. You can make it a day ahead and, once cooled, cover and refrigerate it within two hours; store it there for up to one day. Heat leftover rice until it’s steaming hot all the way through, and don’t reheat it again. If you don’t have time to cook the rice ahead, spread freshly cooked rice out on a tray so the steam can escape quickly, then let it cool before frying.
Shrimp paste varies in saltiness and intensity from brand to brand. So start with a level tablespoon and taste the rice before adding extra salt or fish sauce. Fry the paste briefly in oil before adding the rice: this helps distribute the flavour evenly and takes the raw edge off the paste. The pan should be hot, but the rice doesn’t need to turn crispy. Toss and turn the grains until they’re evenly coloured and hot; frying over too low a heat can make them moist and heavy instead.
The pork is cooked separately with sweet and savoury flavours, so you can adjust the balance without changing the rice. Palm sugar is best for a rounded caramel flavour; light brown sugar is a useful alternative. Unripe green mango is firm and sour. If you can’t find it, a tart, crisp green apple can partly take its place for freshness, though the flavour will be different. Slice either one thinly so it’s easy to combine with the rice and pork.
Serve the rice with the pork, omelette, mango, shallot, chilli and lime in separate piles or bowls. Thinly sliced cucumber is an optional extra if you’d like a cool, juicy bite, but it isn’t needed for the basic version. Bring everything to the table straight away: the mango and shallot will stay crisp, and everyone can decide how much chilli and lime the savoury rice needs.