Soft rice noodles, a creamy but spicy fish curry, and a generous handful of crunchy vegetables: with kanom jeen nam ya, every bite strikes a different balance. Set the toppings out separately so everyone can mix and match.
Kanom jeen nam ya is made with rice noodles and nam ya: a fragrant Thai fish curry made with coconut milk and aromatics. The curry is usually thinner than a thick, oily curry and is spooned over the noodles. The fish gives it body and a soft, almost silky texture; lemongrass, galangal, and chili keep the sauce fragrant and spicy. A little shrimp paste adds savory depth without making the curry taste of shrimp.
The noodles are the quiet center of the bowl. Kanom jeen refers to rice noodles traditionally made through fermentation; outside Thailand, fresh versions can be hard to find. Use fresh kanom jeen if you can get them, or use dried rice vermicelli. The latter are a little firmer and need to be drained well after cooking, so excess water doesn’t end up in the curry sauce.
Each aromatic brings something different. Lemongrass adds a fresh citrus aroma, galangal a peppery, earthy note, and dried chili the heat. Fingerroot, also known as krachai, is used in some versions and has a distinct herbal flavor. If it’s hard to find, you can leave it out; extra galangal is not an exact substitute. Adjust the amount of chili by removing the seeds or using fewer peppers. For the fish, use a firm, mild white fish such as cod or hake, so it’s easy to break into flakes.
The vegetables and herbs served alongside the curry aren’t an afterthought: raw cabbage, cucumber, and bean sprouts bring fresh, crunchy bites to balance the warm, creamy sauce. The vegetables and herbs served with it vary by region and household. White cabbage is firm and mild; thinly sliced pointed cabbage works too. For herbs, try Thai basil, mint, or cilantro, depending on what’s available. Keep them separate from the sauce until serving so they stay fresh.
Serve the noodles and curry warm, with the raw vegetables and herbs in separate bowls. Put the noodles in a bowl first, add curry, and include some of the toppings with each bite. There should be plenty of sauce, but it shouldn’t completely drown the noodles. Set out extra chili for anyone who wants more heat. This keeps the contrast between soft rice noodles, tender fish, smooth coconut sauce, and fresh crunch clear.
Soak the dried chili peppers in hot water for 10 minutes. Drain. For a milder curry, remove the seeds.
Bring the water in a pan to just below a boil. Add the fish and poach for 6–8 minutes, until just cooked and easy to flake. Lift the fish out of the pan and reserve the poaching liquid.
Grind the chili, shallot, garlic, lemongrass, galangal, fingerroot, and shrimp paste in a mortar or small food processor to make a paste as fine as possible. Add 1–2 tablespoons of poaching liquid if needed. Use two forks to pull the fish into small flakes.
Spoon the thick coconut cream from the top of the can into a large pan. Heat over medium heat and stir in the curry paste. Cook for 4–5 minutes, stirring regularly, until the paste is very fragrant.
Stir in the rest of the coconut milk and 150 ml of the poaching liquid. Bring to a gentle boil and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Add the fish and press it into smaller pieces in the sauce with a spoon. Season with fish sauce and sugar. Add a splash more poaching liquid if the curry is too thick.
Meanwhile, cook the rice noodles according to the package instructions. Drain and briefly rinse with cold water if they stick together; drain well.
Divide the noodles between four bowls. Spoon in the warm fish curry and serve with the cabbage, cucumber, bean sprouts, and herbs, so everyone can add toppings to taste.
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