ABOUT THIS RECIPEA lighter take on polpette
Polpette is the Italian word for little balls, often made with meat, but the shape isn’t tied to any one ingredient. This salmon version is a contemporary, Italian-inspired variation: lemon zest and parsley add freshness to the fish, while breadcrumbs and egg hold the balls together. It’s not a claim to a traditional regional recipe, but a way to bring the familiar combination of fish, herbs and citrus to a small, antipasto-style bite.
Salmon is the main ingredient, so choose a fresh piece without skin or pin bones and cut it into small pieces with a sharp knife. Chop the fish finely, but don’t turn it into a smooth paste: a little texture keeps the centre juicy and recognisably salmon. Breadcrumbs absorb moisture and help firm up the mixture. Add them gradually; the amount needed can vary a little depending on how moist the fish is and the size of the egg. The mixture can stay soft, but it should be firm enough to shape into balls without falling apart.
Lemon zest adds aroma without making the mixture wet. The juice works better in the sauce, where its acidity brightens the rich flavour of the salmon. Flat-leaf parsley has a pronounced, fresh green flavour and is easy to chop finely; use curly parsley if that’s what you have, but chop it extra finely. Fresh parsley is widely available in spring and summer, though you can find it all year round. For a slightly firmer, more savoury result, you can replace some of the breadcrumbs with fine breadcrumbs, but keep the amount modest so the salmon doesn’t fade into the background.
A few minutes’ rest in the fridge helps the shaped balls hold their form. Then fry them in a large frying pan with a thin layer of oil. Medium-high heat gives the outside time to turn golden brown without the breadcrumbs burning before the fish is cooked through. Turn them carefully with a spoon or tongs. Serve the balls straight away, with the yoghurt sauce on the side so the crust stays crisp. They make a good starter with a simple green salad or alongside other small bites; keep the accompaniments light and let the fresh sauce complement the lemon in the salmon.