SIDE DISH · NOORS KITCHENInsalata di rinforzo with cauliflower, olives and capers
This Neapolitan salad combines tender-crisp cauliflower with crunchy pickled vegetables, olives, capers and anchovies. After resting for a few hours, the tangy, salty and savoury flavours seep into the cauliflower; serve the salad chilled or at room temperature.
ABOUT THIS RECIPEA salad that gets better as it rests
Insalata di rinforzo is part of the Neapolitan festive table, where it is often served alongside other dishes. The base is cauliflower, complemented by pickled vegetables, olives, capers and anchovies. There are several versions: some include pickled peppers, among other things, while others put more emphasis on olives or jarred vegetables. The combination is deliberately bold. The acidity of the vinegar and sottaceti cuts through the briny capers, olives and anchovies, while the cauliflower soaks up the flavours.
The cauliflower should be cooked but still firm enough to hold its shape when tossed. So boil the florets briefly and test them with the tip of a knife: it should go in, with just a little resistance. Let them drain and cool completely before adding the oil and vinegar. Warm, wet cauliflower dilutes the dressing and can make the salad mushy. Small florets are also easier to toss with the other ingredients and spread the salty accents evenly.
For the pickled vegetables, you can use a jar of mixed sottaceti or giardiniera. Choose a mix with distinct pieces of carrot, celery or pepper, and drain them well. If you can find jarred pickled peppers, you can use them in place of some of the mixed vegetables. Green and black olives bring different notes: green ones are often firmer and fresher, while black ones are usually softer and rounder. Use anchovy fillets in oil; there’s no need to rinse them, as their briny flavour is part of the dressing. Taste at the end before adding salt.
The resting time isn’t just a detail: the vinegar and oil mellow the sharp edge of the anchovies and capers and let the flavours seep into the cauliflower. So it’s best to make the salad a few hours before serving. Cover and refrigerate it, then take it out about twenty minutes before eating so the oil can become liquid again and the flavours come through more clearly. Keep leftovers chilled and eat them within two to three days. Serve as a side dish with a festive meal, or put the salad on the table with bread and other antipasti; it’s meant to be part of a larger meal, not a neutral side dish.