Horenso no goma-ae: Japanese Spinach with Sesame

Sesame as a gentle counterpoint

Goma-ae is a Japanese preparation in which vegetables are tossed with a sesame-based dressing. Horenso means spinach; horenso no goma-ae is therefore spinach with sesame. There are various versions of goma-ae, using different vegetables and dressing proportions. This version keeps things simple: toasted sesame, soy sauce and a small amount of sugar. The sesame brings a full, slightly earthy flavour, while the soy sauce adds savouriness. Sugar rounds out those flavours without making the dressing taste sweet.

Preparation is quick, but two key steps determine the texture. Blanching the spinach briefly in plenty of boiling water makes it wilt without turning completely soft. Then cool it quickly to stop the cooking and preserve its green colour. Gently squeeze out the water: too much moisture will dilute the dressing, but squeezing too hard will make the leaves dense and mushy. After draining, cut long bunches into manageable pieces so they mix evenly with the sesame.

For a pronounced sesame flavour, briefly toast unroasted sesame seeds in a dry frying pan. Keep the pan moving and take the seeds off the heat as soon as they smell fragrant; they will continue to brown quickly. Then grind them coarsely in a mortar, ideally leaving some seeds recognisable for a pleasant bite. A mortar gives you good control over the texture. No mortar at home? Use a small food processor, but pulse briefly so the sesame doesn’t turn into a paste.

Spinach is generally easy to find in the Netherlands and works well in a range of seasonal meals. The same dressing can also be used with green beans or briefly boiled Swiss chard, for example, though that would no longer be the spinach version. For the most familiar flavour, use Japanese soy sauce; another kind of soy sauce works too, but taste before adding more, as the salt level varies by brand. Tamari is a handy alternative if you already have it at home.

Serve the goma-ae at room temperature or slightly chilled, alongside steamed rice, grilled fish or pan-fried tofu. This is intended as a side dish: its modest portion and savoury sesame dressing complement the other parts of the meal. Ideally, make it shortly before serving so the spinach keeps its fresh colour and firm bite. Leftovers can be covered and stored in the refrigerator, then eaten cold; draining them well helps prevent extra moisture from collecting in the dish.