ABOUT THIS RECIPEA delicate custard with curry and basil
Hor mok pla is a steamed Thai dish in which fish, curry paste and coconut milk come together to make a savoury custard. The name is used for different preparations; ingredients and presentation can vary from cook to cook and region to region. This version follows the Central Thai style described in the brief: fish with red curry paste and coconut milk, steamed in small bowls with Thai basil. It is intended as a modest starter, not a large portion of fish with side dishes.
Choose firm, mild white fish such as cod, pollock or haddock. Fresh fish is easy to chop finely, but thawed frozen fish works too: let it thaw completely and pat it thoroughly dry so excess moisture doesn’t get into the mixture. Finely chop the fish with a sharp knife; a coarse purée from a food processor can make the custard dense and mushy. The small pieces add texture without making the dish heavy.
Red curry paste varies considerably in saltiness and heat from brand to brand. So start with the amount specified and taste a little of the uncooked mixture before mixing in the egg; add a little curry paste or fish sauce if needed. Thai basil has a distinctive herbal, slightly anise-like flavour. If it isn’t available, regular basil is a useful substitute, though the dish will taste different. Canned coconut milk works well; stir the can until smooth first so the fat and water are evenly distributed.
Steaming is important for the delicate texture: the heat is more even and less intense than when frying, allowing the egg and fish to set without forming a browned crust. Let the water in the pan simmer gently and make sure the bowls don’t sit directly in the water. The custard is ready when the centre is just set and no longer looks liquid. Steaming for too long makes the fish drier and the egg texture firmer.
Banana leaf gives the bowls their characteristic aroma and shape. Cut it into pieces, soften it with hot water and fold it into shallow cups; small heatproof bowls are a practical alternative if folding doesn’t work. Serve the custards warm, for example as a starter with steamed jasmine rice and cucumber on the side. Leftovers can be covered and kept in the fridge, and should be piping hot when reheated; warm them gently in the steamer so they don’t dry out unnecessarily.