In this Malaysian gulai, aubergine softens in a fragrant sauce of coconut milk, chilli, turmeric, ginger and lemongrass. Served with rice and fresh cucumber, it makes a complete meal in which the mild vegetable absorbs the spices beautifully.
Gulai is a broad term for spicy dishes, often made with coconut milk, in parts of Southeast Asia; the exact ingredients and consistency vary from region to region and household to household. This gulai terung is all about aubergine simmered in the sauce, rather than aubergine fried until crisp and then served with sambal. The sauce is creamy and fragrant, with heat from the chilli and an earthy note from the turmeric. Lemongrass and ginger add freshness, while the aubergine softens and absorbs the spices.
Aubergines are widely available in the Netherlands in summer and early autumn, but are generally easy to find all year round. Choose ones that feel firm and have smooth, shiny skin. Cut them into generous chunks: small cubes lose their shape more quickly as they simmer. The sauce should bubble gently, not boil vigorously. This helps the aubergine cook evenly and keeps the coconut milk creamy. Stir gently with a broad spoon; tossing it around too vigorously can break up the soft pieces.
The aromatics form the flavour base. Finely chopped shallot, garlic, ginger and chilli are first fried in oil, mellowing their sharp, raw flavours and releasing their fragrance. Turmeric colours the sauce, and lemongrass brings a citrusy aroma without making the dish sour. Bruise the stalk before adding it to the pan so it releases its flavour, then remove it before serving. Full-fat coconut milk is best for a sauce that clings well to the aubergine; a lighter version may be thinner. Fresh or frozen lemongrass can be used instead of a fresh stalk.
Serve the gulai with plain cooked rice to soak up the spiced sauce. Cucumber with lime juice makes a cool, fresh contrast; slice it just before serving so it stays crisp. The amount of chilli is easy to adjust: remove the seeds and membranes for a milder sauce, or use an extra chilli for more heat. Keep the flavours balanced by not adding too much salt before the sauce has simmered. This dish is intended as a main course with rice and cucumber, but it also works alongside other vegetable dishes as part of a larger meal.
Rinse the rice in a sieve until the water is mostly clear. Put the rice and 450 ml water in a pan and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down low, cover the pan and cook for 12 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and leave the rice to stand, covered, for another 10 minutes.
Cut the aubergines into pieces about 4 cm across. Finely chop the shallots, mince the garlic, grate the ginger and finely chop the chilli. Bruise the lemongrass with the back of a knife.
Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based pan over a medium-high heat. Fry the shallot for 3 minutes until soft. Add the garlic, ginger, chilli and turmeric and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
Pour the coconut milk and 150 ml water into the pan. Add the lemongrass and salt and bring gently to the boil. Add the aubergine and stir carefully.
Leave the gulai to simmer gently, uncovered, for 18–22 minutes. Stir carefully from time to time, until the aubergine is tender but still holds its shape. Taste and add a little salt if needed.
Meanwhile, cut the cucumber into thin slices. Squeeze the lime and mix the juice with the cucumber and a pinch of salt.
Remove the lemongrass. Serve the gulai with the rice and cucumber.
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