Grilled zucchini with lemon labneh and crispy hazelnuts

Smoky char marks, fresh yogurt and nuts

This side dish is all about three distinct textures: zucchini that turns tender without falling apart, cool, thick labneh and hazelnuts with a dry crunch. Lemon zest brightens the yogurt without thinning it; a little juice sharpens the flavor further. Garlic adds depth, while mint and parsley bring a fresh, light aroma. Chili oil is deliberately just an accent: use a few drops so the fresh sauce and vegetables remain front and center.

Labneh is thick, strained yogurt eaten in various Levantine food cultures. You can buy it ready-made at Middle Eastern grocery stores and sometimes at larger supermarkets. Greek yogurt is a good alternative, though it is usually a little softer and less concentrated. If needed, strain regular yogurt for a few hours in the refrigerator in a cheesecloth-lined sieve; don’t use yogurt that has been left unrefrigerated. Zucchini is at its best in summer, when it’s widely available, but this dish can be made year-round with firm zucchini.

Long strips give you plenty of surface area for grill marks and are easier to turn than thin slices. Cut them lengthwise with a sharp knife, keeping them about half a centimeter thick. A well-preheated grill pan helps create browned spots before the inside gets too soft. Arrange the strips in a single layer and cook in batches: an overcrowded pan cools down and steams the zucchini instead of grilling it. If you don’t have a grill pan, use a heavy skillet and cook the strips over medium-high to high heat.

Toast the hazelnuts until fragrant and let them cool before roughly chopping them; that way they stay crunchy on the cool labneh. You can replace the hazelnuts with almonds, but avoid salted nuts, as they change the balance of flavors. Serve the zucchini as soon as it’s grilled, on top of or alongside the labneh, to preserve the grill marks and contrast with the sauce. The dish goes well with warm flatbread, spiced beans or grilled fish. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator; if possible, keep the sauce and nuts separate and add the nuts just before eating.