Ripe tomatoes develop dark grill marks and stay juicy inside. A tangy caper dressing cuts through their sweetness, while crunchy garlic crumbs add a little bite to every mouthful.
For this side dish, ripe tomatoes matter more than a particular variety. Choose tomatoes that smell fragrant and yield when you press them gently, but are still firm enough to halve neatly. Beefsteak and medium-sized round tomatoes hold up well on the grill; smaller tomatoes work too, but are harder to turn. In the Netherlands, field-grown tomatoes are at their best in summer. Outside the season, firm, flavourful vine tomatoes work well too, though they may be a little less sweet.
A hot grill pan or barbecue quickly gives the cut sides dark spots while the flesh warms and releases its juices. That contrast is exactly what you want: heat that’s too low makes the tomatoes soft and watery rather than grilled. Use tongs or a thin spatula, and don’t keep moving them around; that way, they stay in contact with the hot surface. A grill pan can smoke, so switch on the extractor fan. Direct heat works well on the barbecue, but move the tomatoes to a cooler spot if they start to soften too quickly.
Capers and red wine vinegar balance the sweetness of the tomato juices with salt and acidity. Rinse the capers only if they’re very salty for your taste, then drain them well. No red wine vinegar to hand? Sherry vinegar is a good substitute; regular white wine vinegar works too, but tastes a little sharper. For a light, crunchy topping, use coarse breadcrumbs or panko if you can. Fine breadcrumbs work as well, but brown faster and make a denser crumb.
Cook the garlic crumbs separately over medium-low heat. Garlic browns faster than breadcrumbs, so stir gently to prevent any bits from turning bitter. Sprinkle the crumbs over the tomatoes just before serving: once they soak up the tomato juices, they lose their crunch. Serve the dish alongside grilled fish, spoon it over warm white beans, or add some crusty bread to mop up the juices. You can prepare the tomatoes and dressing ahead of time, but it’s best to grill the tomatoes and make the crumbs shortly before eating. Store any leftovers covered in the fridge and eat them within two days; keep the crumbs separate, as they’re best fresh.
In a small bowl, mix the capers with the red wine vinegar, 2 tbsp olive oil and a pinch of black pepper. Set the dressing aside.
Heat a grill pan over high heat or prepare the barbecue for direct heat. Halve the tomatoes and lightly brush the cut sides with 1 tbsp olive oil. Sprinkle them with the salt.
Place the tomatoes cut-side down on the hot grill. Grill for 3–5 minutes, until the cut sides have distinct dark spots and the juices start to run. Turn them over and grill for another 1–2 minutes. Grill in batches if needed.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil in a frying pan over medium-low heat. Add the breadcrumbs and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for another 1–2 minutes, until the crumbs are golden brown and crunchy. Remove the pan from the heat.
Arrange the tomatoes on a serving plate. Spoon the caper dressing over them and sprinkle with the garlic crumbs just before serving.
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