ABOUT THIS RECIPETang, smoke and a crisp finish
This is a modern, Malaysian-inspired sharing dish, not a traditional regional recipe. Tamarind and palm sugar give the glaze a pronounced sweet-and-sour profile, while soy sauce adds savoriness. The flavor should be lively and concentrated, not sweet like a syrupy sauce. Tamarind paste varies in tartness and thickness from brand to brand. So taste the sauce before brushing it onto the mushrooms: if the paste is sharp, add a small splash of water; if it’s milder, add a little more tamarind.
Oyster mushrooms are readily available year-round. Choose firm clusters with dry, intact caps and trim only the tough end of the shared stem. Grilling them over high heat browns the edges deeply and gives the flesh a firm bite. Leave space between the pieces in the pan; if it’s too crowded, they’ll release moisture and steam rather than grill. A grill pan works well. On the barbecue, use a grill basket so smaller pieces don’t fall through the grate.
Add the tamarind glaze to the mushrooms only once they’re already browned. Tamarind and sugar can burn quickly over direct heat, while the mushrooms still need time to take on color. Briefly simmering the sauce separately and tossing the mushrooms in it at the end preserves the shine without bitter, blackened spots. Keep the sauce thin enough to coat the mushrooms, but thick enough to cling to them.
Toasted coconut makes a dry, crisp counterpoint to the juicy mushrooms. Toast the coconut flakes in a dry pan, keeping them moving: they color quickly and can go from golden brown to too dark in a matter of seconds. Fresh cilantro and mint bring green, cool notes; feel free to use just cilantro if you don’t have mint. No palm sugar on hand? Light brown sugar works, though the caramel flavor will be a little less pronounced. Use tamarind paste from a jar, not a block of tamarind that needs to be soaked and strained first.
Serve the mushrooms right away, with lime wedges for squeezing over them at the table to taste. As part of a meal, they go well with steamed rice and a simple cucumber or cabbage salad. Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator and use within two days; it’s best to store the coconut separately so it stays crisp. Warm the mushrooms briefly in a frying pan, then add the coconut and herbs.