Grilled Leeks with Romesco and Hazelnuts

Smoky Leeks, Fresh Peppers

Leeks are often cooked until soft and mild, but over high heat they take on a whole different character. The outer leaves darken and develop a smoky flavour, while the centre stays sweet and juicy. That contrast makes the vegetable robust enough to stand up to a bold sauce. Leeks are widely available in autumn and winter, but this side dish can be served all year round; firm leeks with straight, white stalks are easiest to grill evenly.

Romesco adds freshness and body. Roasted peppers are soft and slightly sweet, almonds make the sauce nutty, and breadcrumbs help bring it together. Vinegar cuts through that richness: sherry vinegar works well, but red wine vinegar does too. If you use peppers from a jar, drain them well so the sauce doesn’t become watery. A little smoked paprika enhances the smoky flavour of the leeks without overpowering it.

The charred edges are important for flavour, but the leeks also need to cook all the way through. Thin leeks are often done once they’re coloured all over; thicker ones may need a little more time covered. Pierce the thickest part with a small knife to check: it should go through without much resistance. A grill pan works indoors, as long as it’s properly hot. Cut the leeks into pieces only after cooking, so the leaves stay together while they grill.

Hazelnuts add a different bite from the finely ground almonds in the sauce. Roughly chop them and scatter them over just before serving to keep them crunchy. No hazelnuts on hand? Use extra almonds or walnuts; the flavour will be a little different, but you’ll still get that crunch. Serve the leeks alongside pan-fried fish, with white beans or lentils, or with crusty bread to mop up the romesco. You can keep the sauce covered in the fridge and use it within three days; let it come to room temperature before serving and stir well.