Fennel gets sweet, charred edges in the grill pan; crispy white beans and a fresh salsa verde turn it into a hearty, boldly flavoured vegetable dish.
Fennel has a crisp bite and a distinct anise flavour when raw. Grilling the wedges mellows and sweetens that flavour, while the cut sides develop browned, slightly smoky edges. The core can soften, but shouldn’t fall apart, so cut the fennel into wedges that stay attached at the base. In the Netherlands, locally grown fennel is most readily available in the warmer months; outside that period, it is usually easy to find too, often imported. Choose bulbs that feel firm and have no limp, brown patches.
The white beans make this more than just a vegetable side. Canned beans are convenient here and, after roasting, develop a golden-brown exterior while staying soft inside. Patting them thoroughly dry helps them brown; moisture on the beans will make them steam instead. Spread them out on the baking tray so they aren’t piled on top of each other. Cannellini beans are creamy and hold their shape fairly well, but large lima beans or butter beans work too. They are a little bigger and often have a softer, less crispy exterior.
Salsa verde isn’t one fixed recipe: its ingredients vary by region and cook. In this fairly robust Italian version, parsley and lemon bring freshness, capers add saltiness, and an optional anchovy fillet brings extra savouriness. Chop the ingredients with a knife rather than blending them into a fine purée. This keeps the sauce lively and gives it enough texture to cling to the fennel. Taste before adding extra salt; capers and anchovies already contribute quite a lot. No anchovies on hand, or prefer to leave them out? Omit them and add a few extra capers if you like.
Serve this dish as a side with grilled fish, chicken or an omelette, or turn it into a light meal with bread and a green salad. The sauce can be made ahead, but add it just before serving so the grill marks remain clearly visible. The beans are crispiest straight from the oven. Store leftovers covered in the fridge and reheat the beans later on a baking tray in a hot oven; they may not be as crispy as when freshly made. Add extra lemon juice at the table if the fennel turns out sweet or the beans taste a little heavy.
Preheat the oven to 220 °C (200 °C fan). Pat the drained beans thoroughly dry with a clean tea towel or paper towels.
Toss the beans with 1½ tbsp olive oil, ¼ tsp salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Spread them out on a baking tray and roast for 30–35 minutes. Toss halfway through; they’re ready when the outside is golden brown and firm.
Meanwhile, trim the stalks and any green fronds from the fennel. Set aside a few fine fronds for serving. Cut each bulb lengthwise into 6 wedges, leaving a little of the base attached to each wedge so they stay intact.
Toss the wedges with 1½ tbsp olive oil, the remaining salt and black pepper. Heat a grill pan over medium-high to high heat. Grill the fennel in batches for 4–5 minutes per cut side, until it has distinct grill marks and feels tender when pierced with the tip of a knife.
To make the salsa verde, stir together the parsley, capers, lemon zest and lemon juice. Add the final tablespoon of olive oil and, if using, the anchovy. Taste and season with pepper or extra salt if needed.
Arrange the grilled fennel and warm beans on a platter. Spoon the salsa verde over the top and finish with the reserved fennel fronds.
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