ABOUT THIS RECIPEA fresh kick with smoky corn
Dabu-dabu is a raw relish closely associated with Manado, in North Sulawesi. Tomato, chili, shallot and citrus form the base; the exact proportions and additions vary from one version to another. This dish keeps the relish deliberately simple and fresh. It isn’t a sauce that simmers for a long time: the vegetables are mixed raw, so the tomato stays juicy and the lime keeps the flavors of the chili and shallot bright. Pairing it with grilled corn and tempeh is a contemporary way to serve the relish, not a claim that this is a fixed traditional combination.
Corn is readily available in the Netherlands, especially in summer and early fall, though fresh ears can often be found outside that season too. Choose ears with firm, glossy kernels and keep them cool if you’re not using them right away. Grilling gives the kernels brown spots here and there and a light smoky flavor, while keeping them juicy inside. A barbecue gives the most pronounced smoky flavor; a well-heated grill pan works too. Turn the ears regularly and take them off the heat once they have enough color. Grilling for too long is more likely to dry out the kernels than make them sweeter.
Make the relish shortly before serving. Salt and lime juice draw moisture out of the tomato, so if it sits for too long, the mixture gets wetter and loses some of its freshness. Finely chop the shallot and chili so they’re well distributed; remove the chili seeds if you want less heat. Taste the lime and adjust the amount if needed: the juice should brighten the tomato, not overpower it. Kemangi, Indonesian lemon basil, has a pronounced herbal aroma. If it’s hard to find, regular basil is a good alternative, though its flavor is milder.
Slice the tempeh thinly so it cooks evenly and turns crispy in a frying pan. After frying, drain the slices and salt them while they’re still warm. That way, their roasted, nutty flavor holds its own alongside the tart relish. Serve the ears whole as a sharing side, or halve them for smaller portions. This goes well with rice and other Indonesian-inspired dishes, as well as grilled fish or tofu. Add the relish just as the corn goes to the table; that way, the grilled kernels stay firm and the tempeh stays crispy.