Firm asparagus gets smoky edges in the grill pan while staying juicy inside. A bright dressing with lime, fish sauce and chili cuts through its mellow, slightly sweet flavor; toasted rice and fresh herbs bring fragrance and crunch.
Asparagus and Vietnamese seasonings come together here in a modern vegetable dish, rather than a traditionally named recipe. In spring, when green asparagus is widely available, firm spears are a good choice: they stay juicy over high heat without turning limp straight away. Choose spears of roughly the same thickness so they cook evenly in the grill pan. Thin asparagus works too, but needs less time and loses its bite more quickly.
The grill pan needs to be very hot before the asparagus goes in. That way, the spears color quickly and develop dark, smoky spots while the inside still has a little resistance. A thin coating of oil helps prevent sticking; don't crowd the pan, or the spears will steam rather than grill. An ordinary frying pan works too, though you'll get less distinct grill marks. You can also use an outdoor barbecue, as long as the asparagus won't fall through the grate.
The dressing is all about balancing salty, sour, sweet and spicy. Fish sauce adds depth and saltiness, lime brightens everything up, and a little sugar rounds off the sharp edges. Stir the dressing until the sugar dissolves and taste it before serving: fish sauce varies in saltiness from one brand to another, and not all limes yield the same amount of juice. If needed, add a splash of water to soften the flavor, or a little extra lime for more freshness.
Toasted rice grains bring a nutty aroma and a dry, crisp contrast. Let them cool after toasting before grinding them coarsely; ground too finely, the rice will turn to powder rather than crumbs. A small food chopper works, but a mortar gives you more control. Jasmine rice is best, but ordinary long-grain rice works too. Rau ram, also known as Vietnamese coriander, has a distinctive, peppery flavor. If you can't find it, mint and cilantro together make a fresh, approachable substitute.
Serve the asparagus straight away, with the dressing poured over just before eating and the rice crumbs added last. This keeps the topping crisp and lets the herbs retain their fresh aroma. The dish goes well with grilled fish, tofu or chicken, but can also be part of a meal with rice and other vegetable dishes. If making it ahead, toast the rice and prepare the dressing separately; grill the asparagus just before serving for the best bite.
Toast the rice in a dry frying pan over medium heat for 5–7 minutes. Shake the pan regularly, until the grains smell golden and toasted. Let cool, then grind in a food chopper or mortar until coarsely crumbed.
In a small bowl, stir the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar and water until the sugar dissolves. Mix in the finely chopped chili.
Trim the woody ends from the asparagus. Toss the asparagus with the oil.
Heat a grill pan over high heat. Grill the asparagus, in batches if needed, for 6–9 minutes. Turn regularly; the spears should develop dark spots and be cooked through while still retaining a firm bite.
Arrange the asparagus on a platter. Scatter the mint and cilantro over the top and spoon on the dressing just before serving. Sprinkle with the toasted rice crumbs.
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