Bright green peas are coated in fresh, gently spicy butter with mint and lemon. Toasted sourdough crumbs make this side dish crunchy and soak up just the right amount of dressing.
Peas have a naturally soft, slightly sweet flavor. That’s why lemon and mint work so well with them: the zest adds a fragrant citrus note, a little juice keeps the butter from feeling too rich, and mint makes everything taste fresh. Chili flakes bring gentle warmth, not a fiery sauce. Choose mild or hotter chili flakes to taste, and start with a little; their flavor becomes more pronounced as they infuse the warm butter.
Fresh peas are mainly available in late spring and early summer. Shell them just before cooking, and bear in mind that the yield from the pods is less than the weight of the pods themselves. Frozen peas are a practical choice for this dish: they’re already shelled and can go straight into boiling water. Blanch them briefly and taste a few. They should be warm and tender with a little bite, not mushy; cooking them too long makes their color duller and their texture less firm.
The breadcrumbs have a role of their own in this recipe. Toasting them slowly in oil first dries them out and turns them golden brown, without letting the butter on the peas soften their crisp texture right away. Use sourdough bread for firm, slightly tangy crumbs, or use any other sturdy bread you have on hand. Pulse it coarsely in a food processor or crumble it by hand. Fine breadcrumbs work too, but make a more even, less chunky crisp topping.
Toss the butter with the peas only after they’ve been drained and briefly left to steam dry. This keeps any leftover cooking water from thinning the dressing. The butter doesn’t need to brown: let it melt, then take the pan off the heat before adding the mint and lemon. This keeps the mint tasting fresh and stops the lemon zest from turning bitter from prolonged heat. A small squeeze of lemon juice brightens the flavor; add it gradually and taste as you go.
Serve the peas right away, sprinkling the breadcrumbs over them just before eating so they stay crisp. They go well with pan-fried fish, chicken or a savory vegetable tart, and are also delicious with an omelet or frittata. If you’d like to prepare ahead, toast the crumbs earlier and store them at room temperature in a sealed container once cooled. Cook and dress the peas just before serving; leftovers can be covered and kept in the refrigerator, then gently reheated, although the crumbs will soften.
Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the breadcrumbs and toast for 4–6 minutes, tossing regularly, until golden brown and crisp. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Cook fresh peas for 2–3 minutes or frozen peas for 2 minutes, until warm and tender with a little bite. Drain and leave to steam dry briefly.
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large pan over low heat. Stir in the chili flakes and salt, then take the pan off the heat.
Toss the warm peas in the butter. Add the lemon zest, lemon juice and mint, and toss again. Taste and add a little salt if needed.
Arrange the peas on a serving dish and sprinkle the crispy breadcrumbs over them just before serving.
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