Green papaya salad with tempeh and sambal kecap

Fresh, sweet and crisp in one salad

Green papaya is unripe papaya: firm, pale inside and mild in flavor. That neutral taste and crisp bite make it ideal for a salad with a bold dressing. Choose a fruit that feels firm and has no soft spots. Green papaya is often available fresh in larger Asian supermarkets; sometimes it is already peeled or shredded in the refrigerated section. If using a whole fruit, use a sturdy vegetable peeler and a julienne slicer or sharp knife. The flesh should stay firm, not soft and sweet like ripe papaya.

The flavor profile is inspired by Indonesian ingredients, but this is a modern main-course salad, not a regional classic. Kecap manis adds a dark, syrupy sweetness; lime juice makes it lighter and fresher. A small amount of salty soy sauce deepens the dressing, while chili determines how spicy it is. Taste before mixing everything together: kecap manis varies in sweetness and thickness by brand. Add extra lime if the dressing tastes heavy, or a splash of water if it is too syrupy. Thai basil is highly aromatic; kemangi is a good choice if you can find it. Regular basil works too, with a slightly different aroma.

Fry the tempeh in slices or thin strips so there is plenty of surface area to turn golden-brown and crisp. Pat it dry and give the pan time to get properly hot; turning it too soon makes it harder to get a crust. The tempeh is seasoned separately so the sweet dressing doesn't caramelize or burn in the pan. Fry the thinly sliced shallots over medium heat until golden. Take them out of the pan before they get dark: they will continue to color a little from the residual heat.

Mix the papaya and cucumber with the dressing just before eating. That way, they stay firm and the salad doesn't get unnecessarily watery. No julienne slicer? Cut the papaya into thin slices, then into matchsticks; a mandoline works too, as long as you use a hand guard. Firm, unripe mango can replace the papaya, but it is usually more tart and may need a little more kecap. Kohlrabi also gives a crisp result, though it changes the character of the dish.

Serve the salad straight away, topped with the warm tempeh, basil and shallots so the crispy parts stay distinct. It works as a light main meal or as part of a spread with rice and other vegetable dishes. To prepare ahead, store the sliced vegetables, dressing, fried tempeh and shallots separately, covered, in the refrigerator. Toss the salad just before serving; the shallots will stay crispest if you keep them dry and separate.