ABOUT THIS RECIPEFresh greens, savory butter
This side dish is all about contrast: green beans with a little bite, paired with soft butter, salty miso and crispy shallots. White miso brings a mild, rounded umami flavor without overpowering the beans. Lemon zest adds fragrance and freshness; a small splash of rice vinegar adds acidity that keeps the butter sauce from tasting too rich. Unsalted butter is best, so you can control the salt yourself: miso varies in saltiness from brand to brand.
In the Netherlands, green beans are most readily available from local growers in summer and early autumn. Choose beans that feel firm and have a fresh color, with no limp or dried-out ends. Out of season, frozen beans work too: blanch them according to the package directions and check that they still have a little bite, as the cooking time may differ. Fresh beans don’t need to be rinsed in ice-cold water after blanching; draining and using them straight away keeps them warm for the butter.
A quick blanch is more important here than a long boil. The beans should be cooked but not soft: their fresh bite balances the rich sauce. Keep the miso butter over low heat and add a spoonful of cooking water if needed. This low-starch water helps coat the beans with the butter and miso, instead of leaving a thick layer at the bottom of the pan. Don’t let the sauce boil vigorously, or the butter may separate and the miso will lose its mellow character.
Fry the shallot slowly in a thin layer of neutral oil. Thin, even rings brown more evenly; take them out of the pan as soon as they’re light golden, since they’ll continue to color a little as they cool. For a quicker version, use ready-made crispy shallots. Black or regular sesame seeds can replace the white variety. No white miso on hand? Use a smaller amount of another kind of miso and taste carefully, as darker miso usually has a stronger flavor.
Serve the beans straight away, for example alongside rice, fried tofu, fish or chicken. They also go well as part of a meal with several small side dishes. You can prepare some components in advance: toast the sesame seeds and fry the shallot earlier in the day, but store the shallot separately so it stays crispy. Leftovers can be covered and kept in the fridge for up to two days; reheat them gently in a pan, bearing in mind that the beans will become softer.