Thick pasta, tomato mince seasoned with cinnamon and cloves, and a generous golden-brown layer of béchamel: pastitsio is a hearty Greek baked dish with distinct layers. A fresh green salad keeps everything in balance.
Pastitsio brings together three distinct elements: thick pasta, a spiced meat sauce, and a soft béchamel topping with cheese. The sauce gets its characteristic warm aroma from cinnamon and cloves; these spices should be subtly present, not so dominant that they overpower the tomato and mince. A little red wine adds extra depth, but you can replace it with stock if you prefer to cook without wine.
Use tubular pasta such as bucatini or thick macaroni. It remains distinct in the sliced layers and holds the sauce well. Cook the pasta for less time than the package instructions say: it will continue cooking in the oven. Drain it as soon as it is just al dente to keep the bottom layer from becoming soft and dense. Stir in the cheese and egg once the pasta has cooled slightly, so the egg doesn't set straight away.
Take your time when making the meat sauce and brown the mince well first. This gives it more flavour than simply simmering it until cooked through. Then let the tomato reduce until the sauce is thick enough to cling to the mince; a watery sauce makes the layers less firm. Beef mince is practical and mild, while using some lamb mince makes the flavour a little richer. If you use only beef, the cinnamon-and-clove combination will still come through clearly.
The béchamel should be thick enough to sit on top of the pasta, but still easy to spread. Gradually whisk the milk into the roux and keep stirring to prevent lumps. Parmesan is an easy-to-find substitute for Greek hard cheese; it gives the topping a salty, savoury flavour. A pinch of nutmeg works well with the creamy sauce, but keep it subtle so the spices in the mince remain centre stage.
Leave the pastitsio to rest for at least twenty minutes after baking before slicing it. This gives the layers time to firm up, so you can serve neat portions without the dish getting cold. Serve with a simple salad of lettuce and cucumber dressed with lemon and olive oil: the fresh, slightly tart note cuts nicely through the rich béchamel. Cover and refrigerate any leftovers, then reheat them thoroughly in the oven or microwave.
Preheat the oven to 180 °C (conventional heat, top and bottom). Lightly grease an oven dish measuring about 25 x 35 cm.
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Cook the pasta for 2 minutes less than the package instructions say. Drain and leave to steam dry briefly.
Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large frying pan. Cook the onion gently for 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds.
Add the mince and cook for 6–8 minutes, breaking it up, until well browned. Stir in the tomato purée and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the wine or stock and let most of it evaporate.
Add the chopped tomatoes, cinnamon, cloves, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Simmer the sauce uncovered for 20–25 minutes, until thick. Remove the cloves and bay leaf.
To make the béchamel, melt the butter in a saucepan. Stir in the flour and cook the roux, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the milk a little at a time, whisking until smooth. Simmer gently for 5–7 minutes, stirring regularly, until the sauce is thick and smooth. Season with nutmeg and pepper. Stir in 50 g of the Parmesan.
Beat the eggs in a large bowl. Leave the pasta to cool for a few minutes, then mix it with the eggs and 25 g of the Parmesan. Spoon the pasta into the oven dish and spread it out evenly.
Spoon the meat sauce over the pasta and spread it out. Spread the béchamel on top and sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan.
Bake the pastitsio for 40–45 minutes, until the top is golden brown and the edges are bubbling. Leave to rest for at least 20 minutes before slicing.
Slice the lettuce and cucumber for the salad. Just before serving, toss with the lemon juice and 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Serve alongside the pastitsio.
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