Greek Lentil Stew with Loukaniko

The sausage is where it starts

Lentils with loukaniko make a hearty, juicy meal where a few distinctive ingredients do the work. As they cook, the lentils take on the flavor of onion, tomato, bay leaf and the fat from the sausage. Green or brown lentils usually hold their shape; red lentils break down faster and make the pot mushier. This is a stovetop stew, not oven-baked fakes plaki: that Greek dish is usually cooked in the oven with lentils and tomato and has a different, often drier texture.

Loukaniko is a Greek sausage whose seasonings can vary by type; some varieties, for example, contain fennel or orange peel. Use fresh, uncooked loukaniko for this dish, so the sausage can brown in the pan and cook through as it simmers. If it isn’t available, use a fresh pork sausage with fennel, or a plain fresh pork sausage. The flavor won’t be exactly the same, but browning is still important: the browned bits and rendered fat make a savory base for the onion and lentils.

Rinse dried lentils before using and pick out any small stones. Green or brown lentils usually don’t need to be soaked. Let them simmer gently and stir occasionally along the bottom of the pot, without moving them around constantly. Cooking time varies by type and age of the lentils, so taste them toward the end: they should be tender but still have a little bite. It’s best to add salt when they’re nearly cooked. If the pot boils dry sooner, pour in a little hot water; the stew can stay juicy.

Tomato adds body and a mild sweet-and-sour flavor, while a splash of red wine vinegar at the end adds deeper acidity. Taste after adding it and add a little more vinegar or salt if needed. Serve the lentils with crusty bread to soak up the juices and a simple green salad for freshness. Cool leftovers quickly, cover and refrigerate them within two hours, and use within three days. Reheat them thoroughly in a pan with a splash of water.