ABOUT THIS RECIPEA Crispy Crust with a Fresh Contrast
Tofu has a mild flavor of its own and takes on other flavors well, but for this side dish, contrast is what matters most: a crisp exterior against a soft center, with a dip that is spicy, sour, salty and slightly sweet all at once. Firm tofu is the best choice here. Soft tofu won’t hold its shape well when tossed and fried. After draining, pat the tofu thoroughly dry; the less moisture on the outside, the easier it is for the cornstarch to form a thin coating rather than a sticky crust.
Cornstarch gives the cubes a light, crispy exterior without a thick batter. First spread the cubes out on a clean tea towel or paper towels and let them air-dry briefly if they still feel damp. Toss them in the cornstarch just before frying. Use a large skillet and fry in a single layer: if the pan is too crowded, moisture will be released and the cubes will steam instead of browning. Turn them with tongs or a spatula once they release from the pan more easily.
The dip isn’t cooked. Sambal brings the heat, lime juice adds freshness and soy sauce gives it saltiness and savoriness. Palm sugar rounds off the sharp edges; stir well so the sugar dissolves. Sambal varies in heat and saltiness by brand, so if you’re sensitive to spice, start with a little less and add more to taste. No palm sugar on hand? Use the same amount of dark brown sugar. Lemon can replace the lime, although the dip will taste a little different.
Slice the spring onion into thin rings just before serving and scatter them over the warm tofu. That way, the onion stays fresh and adds a crunchy bite. Serve the dip on the side in a small bowl so the crust doesn’t soften before everyone sits down to eat. The tofu works as a sharing side dish with rice, grilled vegetables or a meal salad; when serving several dishes, the fresh dip is also handy for tasting between richer flavors. It’s best to fry the tofu just before serving, when the crust is at its best.