Firm white fish cooks briefly in a light, spiced sauce of coconut, chili and spices. Tamarind adds a tangy counterpoint; rice soaks up the sauce nicely.
This Goan fish curry is all about the interplay of coconut and acidity. Coconut milk rounds out the sauce, while tamarind brings a bright, fruity tang. Chili adds heat, and cumin, coriander seeds, garlic and turmeric build the spiced base. The result should not be heavy or thick: the sauce stays fairly light, with plenty of flavor for the rice to soak up. The exact proportions and choice of souring agent vary from recipe to recipe and from region to region; this is a practical home version with tamarind as a distinct accent.
Grinding coriander seeds and cumin seeds shortly before cooking gives a more fragrant result than using ground spices that have been open for a long time. The type of chili mostly determines the heat. Dried Kashmiri chili usually adds more color than heat; regular dried red chili can be hotter. If in doubt, start with one chili and taste the sauce before adding the fish. A smooth spice paste distributes the flavor evenly, but do not grind it for longer than necessary: a little texture is fine.
Canned coconut milk makes this version simple and gives you a consistent sauce. Full-fat coconut milk is best; a light version will make the curry thinner and less creamy. Tamarind paste is concentrated and varies by brand, so start with the stated amount and taste before adding the fish. If using tamarind pulp, soak it in warm water and strain out the pulp; add the sour liquid gradually. Lemon or lime tastes different and is not an exact substitute, but a small amount can work if tamarind is unavailable.
Cod, pollock or firm sea bass are suitable, as long as the pieces are not too thin. Pat thawed fish dry and cut it into evenly sized pieces so they cook at about the same time. Let the sauce develop its flavor first, then keep it at a gentle simmer; boiling vigorously can break up the fish. The fish is done when it is opaque and flakes easily. Serve immediately with white rice and, if you like, some fresh coriander. Cool leftovers within two hours, store them covered in the refrigerator and eat them within two days; reheat the curry gently until it is piping hot throughout.
Rinse the rice until the water is mostly clear. Put it in a pan with 600 ml water and 1/2 tsp salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and cook covered for 10–12 minutes, or according to the package instructions. Remove from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes.
Grind the coriander seeds, cumin seeds and chilies finely. Add the garlic, turmeric, black pepper and 2 tablespoons of water and grind to a coarse paste.
Heat the oil in a large pan over medium heat. Cook the onion for 5–6 minutes until soft, without letting it brown. Add the spice paste and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
Pour the coconut milk and 150 ml water into the pan. Stir in the tamarind paste and 1/2 tsp salt. Simmer the sauce gently for 7–8 minutes and taste. Add a little more salt or tamarind if needed before adding the fish.
Place the fish pieces in the sauce and lower the heat. Let them cook gently for 4–6 minutes, depending on their thickness, until the fish is opaque and flakes easily. Do not stir vigorously; gently move the pan if needed.
Divide the rice among four bowls or plates. Spoon the fish curry and sauce alongside and scatter the fresh coriander over the top.
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