Small turnips get a glossy coating of white miso and butter. Shiso, citrus and toasted rice add fresh aroma and crunch to their juicy bite.
Small Japanese turnips are mild and juicy, with a gentle pepperiness that is less pronounced than that of large winter turnips. In the Netherlands, young turnips are often available in spring and early summer; what’s on offer varies by greengrocer and season. Choose ones that are about the same size so they cook at the same time. If they still have their greens, store them separately and use only the turnips for this dish. Left whole, they look striking on the plate; halving larger ones is practical and creates a flat side that browns nicely.
The flavor hinges on the balance between butter and white miso. White miso is generally milder and a little sweeter than darker miso, allowing the turnips to retain their own flavor. Miso is already salty, so extra salt usually isn’t needed. Searing first adds color and a roasted flavor; a brief simmer afterward gives the turnips a tender exterior while leaving them with some bite. The sauce is reduced and finished with butter only toward the end. This gives it a sheen without cooking the turnips for long in a salty sauce.
Shiso has a fresh, herbal aroma that isn’t quite the same as mint or basil. Use the leaves as an accent, rather than in a thick layer. If shiso isn’t available, a few small basil leaves are a useful alternative; add a little extra lemon zest if you like for a fresh note. Yuzu has a floral citrus aroma, but lemon works well and is easier to find. Add the juice at the end so the sauce stays bright and fresh-tasting.
Toasted rice brings a dry, nutty crunch to contrast with the tender turnips and smooth sauce. Use Japanese short-grain rice and crush it coarsely after toasting: small pieces add texture, while very large grains can feel hard. This is a garnish, not a crunchy coating for every bite. Sprinkle it over the dish just before serving so it stays crisp.
Serve the turnips as a side with rice, fried tofu or grilled fish; the fresh citrus and herbs also pair well with soba noodles. They’re best served warm, but once cooled, they can be covered and stored in the refrigerator for up to two days. Reheat them gently in a pan with a small splash of water, and add the shiso and rice only when serving. The sauce may thicken a little as it reheats; stir to loosen it and avoid bringing it to a hard boil.
Wash the turnips and cut off the greens, leaving a small piece of stem if you like. Leave small turnips whole; halve larger ones.
Heat a large frying pan with the oil over medium-high heat. Cook the turnips for 4–5 minutes, turning them regularly; let the cut sides of halved turnips brown.
Pour the water and mirin into the pan. Cover and simmer gently for 8–12 minutes, until a knife slides into the turnips with slight resistance. Lift them out of the pan with a slotted spoon.
Stir the miso into the liquid in the pan and simmer gently, uncovered, for 2–4 minutes. Stir in the butter until the sauce is glossy. Return the turnips to the pan and turn them in the sauce. Remove from the heat and stir in the yuzu or lemon juice.
Meanwhile, toast the short-grain rice in a dry frying pan over medium-low heat for 4–6 minutes, until the grains smell lightly golden. Shake the pan regularly. Let cool slightly, then coarsely crush the rice in a mortar.
Cut the shiso into thin strips. Arrange the turnips and sauce on a serving dish and scatter the shiso and toasted rice over the top.
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