ABOUT THIS RECIPEBitter, tender and crunchy in one bowl
Broccoli rabe, also known as rapini, has slender stems, leaves and small flower buds. Its flavour is distinctly green and more bitter than regular broccoli. That character works especially well alongside soft, creamy white beans. Fusilli holds the sauce in its twists, while the stems and leaves retain their shape. Lemon lifts the flavours, and toasted breadcrumbs add a dry, crunchy contrast to every bite.
A quick blanch takes the edge off the bitterness and gets the stems tender-crisp. Cut thicker stems into small pieces so they cook in about the same time as the leaves. Don’t leave the vegetable in the water for long after blanching: it will get another quick fry with garlic and chilli flakes. This gives the garlic time to flavour the oil without turning dark and bitter. Save a mug of pasta water; its starch helps bind the beans and oil into a light sauce.
Broccoli rabe can be hard to find in some places. Turnip greens or a combination of broccolini and a handful of kale work as alternatives, though they’ll make the dish milder or change its bitterness. Blanch sturdy stems a little longer than tender leaves. Canned or jarred white beans are handy: rinse and drain them well. Cannellini beans are soft and creamy, but large white beans work too. For the breadcrumbs, coarsely grate or crumble stale bread; fine breadcrumbs won’t give you as much crunch.
Toast the breadcrumbs separately until golden and scatter them over the pasta just before serving. That way, they stay crunchy while the bean sauce and pasta water coat the fusilli. Grate lemon zest over the dish and add juice to taste: start with half a lemon and taste, since the amount of acidity depends on the fruit and how bitter the vegetable is. Serve straight away as a main, with a simple green salad if you like. Leftovers can be covered and stored in the fridge, then gently reheated with a splash of water; the breadcrumbs will soften, though.